I’m interested in playing with Triple A. Best way to reach me is by email at jonkrost@comcast.net.
Game length issues
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I read and re-read this post. I can’t help but think this person is a wee bit….oh what’s the word I’m looking for?..domineering…overbearing maybe? That said…some good points were made.
Back to the game,
- many people suggest combining or truncating parts of the turn. This is not what I would recommend.  There are many variations of this, but all of them tend to blur the conduct of the game and/or obscure weak play by permitting the players to do anything they want in any order (such as revising your buy after you see the combat outcomes).
That’s been my experience too.
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Playing with the paper money is a waste of time (about 30m)
What?! How did you come to that conclusion? Paper money (or chips) is a big part of the A&A experience. A must in my game room. -
People need to focus on setup not wander in whenever.
As one who hosts a lot of games, I set the game up the night before. -
eat before you play stopping to eat is a huge waste of time and right after you finish, someone else is hungry
Not eating for up to 12 hours is not fun. I always provide a buffet style meal and keep drinks & snacks flowing. A crock pot full of chili or stew is a wonderful thing. It does not slow the game as the players wander over between turns to fill their plates and eat. -
quit smoking. Going outside to smoke makes role playing games and wargames impossible because no-one is at the table.
As an ex-smoker, I “get it”. It’s never an issue when someone wanders outside for a smoke. It’s always between turns. If they’re getting attacked, a quick head out the door brings them right back in. Not an issue at my games.
6) when it isn’t your turn, think about what you’re going to do.  You can chat or mingle or whatever but you should never say "Oh, its my turn, damn, lets start processing now (after a 45 minute wait on the rest of the players).
Agreed.-
help.  Without trying to mess up your pieces or make decisiosn for you, when its not my turn, im moving chips, removing casualties, gathering the other players die, laying out control markers, cleaning up army men.  I’m acting like a banker when its not my turn, managing the board while the other players announce casualties.Â
ummm….oh hell no! Don’t touch my men! Or move my units or do any rearranging of my pieces! Bad juju and poor game manners. At least ask if you’re so OCD…but don’t freak when told “Don’t touch my men.” -
narrate the game.  if you say out loud whats happening, and gently remind people when it is their turn, everyone can hear the conduct whether they are watching it or not.
Agreed. Good communication always makes for a good game. -
pre-organize the pieces.  someone suggested egg boxes, dividing the stuff makes setup/cleanup even easier, this wastes a lot of time (when all the pieces are just lumped in the box, 30+ min extra)
Agreed. Very important. Always better when there’s no pile of casualties cluttering the table. -
commit to play, show up on time.  If there are people who are reluctant to play, immature, etc, they are not helpful to your game, they are an impediment.  Adding semi-dedicated players is a waste of time.  Selling the game to new players is pretty fruitless considering the learning curve.
Seems pretty harsh to me. How do you get new players and rookies to your table (or return to your table) if you have such a arrogant, unwelcoming attitude? -
shut up.  I cant count as well when you are talking.  I cant focus.  Same goes for me on your turn. Chat, but do as an aside and keep the game as a priority.
“shut up”…really? If you can’t conduct your turn or play while others are talking…you shouldn’t be at an A&A table. Especially when there’s war-whooping going on as the dice are thrown and the casualties are counted.
12)  Watch each other, count and recount.  We all count buys. We all count incomes.  We all announce hits and count total hits.  This prevents both cheating, mistakes, and omissions.
Agreed. Although I’ve never really had any cheating issues in all the years I’ve played. I think folks that play these game are good & honest folks anyway. Generally speaking.13) use minidice to represent air moves.  We use the “moves remaining system” (rather than “moves used”).  so each plane or set of planes has its own range dice.  This is a HUGE help.  If you don’t use minidice to show how much EACH AND EVERY plane has moved, there is a much higher chance of slop.  This is especially true when you reshuffle your plane allocations, ill tell you right now that it is pretty much slop city if you re-allocate planes when 10-15 of them are available to support your battles.
I’ve never used any types of counters until recently when a new player to my table showed me how well that works for keeping things straight. Not the end-all if it’s not used though. Seasoned players can do a good job of keeping things straight.Many of these things will not really reduce the total time of play to some reasonable limit, unf. They can shink it to 45 m setup 2 hours first turn 1-1.5 per turn after that.  There are other setup versions (G42) that are a bit more expedited, but its simply a very, very long game.  We usually begin at 10am and end around 5-6, T6-8.  Same at tourneys, with an earlier start. Â
Have fun my friends.
I guess my game table is a bit more relaxed and “forgiving” If someone is getting their panties in wad over something, I tend to remind them that it’s only game meant for fun. Not rattled nerves or anger or trying to control others. That’s my take anyway. Love this game indeed!
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This all reminds me of the time I declared war turn 1 with Japan for the first time…
“You can’t do that! You have to wait until turn 4! This isn’t 1942 here!”
Grabs rule book and reads
“Sh^t I guess he can do that”.
I mentioned this because I find a big help for whoever is playing the USA/China/Anzac is declaring war right away. I find it very boring not being at war and I could imagine for less enthusiastic A&A players it’s a “I’m never playing this again” type of deal while going through all those turns watching the Axis and UK Europe take forever to play and all you can do is build armies. If a person is feeling like it’s long and drawn out game then when it comes to their turn they make sure to take their time just so they have some playing time too. And yes we could switch to Global 42 but we all would rather play 1940. I’ve never attempted a G1 or even G2 before though.
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i was more trying to be funny it was late at night, but my tongue in cheek advice was more addressed to the “old me” of the college days.
the eat before thing is from the college days as well of course you have to eat during the game we can barely make it through more than one round before everyone breaks to eat. � �  my poorly articulated point is that everyone should eat before the game and then again hopefully all at the same time
im also an ex smoker which is why that point is particularly apt for myself
the shut up thing was inspired from Gencon…during the tourney there was this table of free form RPG players right next to us chanting WHEEL OF FATE! WHEEL OF FATE! WHEEL OF FATE! every five minutes it was obnoxious. � � I wasn’t trying to squelch a good time
the part about new players, I’ve found that most people find the commitment of time (and learning) offputting about this particular game. �  Its just pretty hard to attract someone that isn’t gung ho about it already
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If you’re inviting new players force them to watch Young Grasshoppers tutorial series on how to play G-40 before they come over to play the game. That should shave off a good hour of explaining who’s at war with who and what are these damn neutral countries all about. They will be itching to SBR your major complexes for a max damage of 20 by the time they get there. :-o
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I host many games and I agree with Maddog and General. We pretty much do the same thing and I do have all the storage around my tables to put away and build pieces.
Got icp victory magnetic tracker boards and we use poker chips which is so easy for everybody to use. I still love the money but I got bank boxes in the middle of both sides of table for everybody to pay and collect. Buys go on table with chips under the pieces when u buy and when they collect just ask them to see chips. Easier to count from other side of table when you see the color of poker chips. -
Regarding the battle calculator, if you don’t allow it people need to count up odds with a pen and paper going into likely second round outcomes in many cases. That just takes even more time. I guess there just needs to be some sort of reasonableness applied. Maybe you can use the battle calculator when it isn’t your turn?
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Regarding the battle calculator, if you don’t allow it people need to count up odds with a pen and paper going into likely second round outcomes in many cases. That just takes even more time. I guess there just needs to be some sort of reasonableness applied. Maybe you can use the battle calculator when it isn’t your turn?
Precisely our rule, use anything you want when it’s not your turn. On your turn it’s just you and your team’s brains.
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Here’s a little something I do, that I’ve found really helps to shave a few minutes off every turn.
It might seem simple, but you’d be surprised how much time can be spent digging and returning pieces to their trays, if you don’t have a good system in place…http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=35904.msg1411574#msg1411574
You can see an example image in there at the bottom using 1942.2 but I adopt the same system in G40. Once I started doing this, I never went back. Now I’m a big proponent of grouping by shape, and trusting in color differentiation for easy recognition, rather than the other way round. Hard habit to break, for the OCD sculpt collector, but it works. Even chainsmoking degenerates like me can make the extra effort to be better orgnaized haha.
Also, like others have mentioned before and elsewhere too, my group separates combat movement, and combat proper with the purchase phase. So the phases like this…
repair, combat movement, purchase, combat, non com, placement, collect.
If you want to pick up the pace it’s highly effective for focusing your players. It doesn’t change anything compared to the standard phase order of “purchase, combat movement, combat proper” other than the speed with which your players will make decisions. -
I’ve played hundreds of games, some face to face, a lot on AAA. Obviously the quickest FtoF was with experts, like Gargantua & his crew in Vancouver, while the slowest FtoF was w/novices. Here’s some of the more important lessons I’ve learned about game time, some of these will be repeats, sorry:
1. MOST IMPORTANT: Some one should act as taskmaster, making sure players are planning before their turn, make sure players are “done” with combat moves so that you can start rolling, keep track of battles and battle results, do double count of money, etc. That sounds annoying, but it’s really easy to let large amounts of time slip by when a player is “planning” or whatever when really they are just dithering. The game has to keep good pace with people kept engaged, otherwise the moment there is a break, peoples’ minds start to wander and then they wander and start talking about other stuff, bringing the game to halt.
2. No battle calculator. That is a huge time suck to plug in all the stats and run numbers etc. Plus, it really is a violation of the spirit of a FtoF game where there is some expectation of living with the fog of war.
3. No TV in room. The moment someone says “let’s turn on the game while we play” you know that’s going to spell disaster.
4. Don’t Play with newbies. This sounds mean, but playing with newbies will inevitably slow the game down terribly for obvious reasons. Not only do they suck up time trying to understand what to do, they make mistakes and then you have to rewind the game often to make it at least somewhat competitive. The only thing you can do here is trying to help them by talking their turn through with them… this gets a little absurd to the extent you end up playing against yourself with just a warm body as a stand-in for the hypothetical other side.
5. No beer before noon. A&A isn’t A&A unless there is beer, but once the drinking starts, play does start to suffer, so best at least to try to mitigate it by waiting some. (FtoF games for me usually start at 9am).
6. Do not use income tracker. What a waste of time. It rarely is accurate in my experience. Counting the money on the board can be done quickly and accurately, especially if you do a double count, See Taskmaster up above.
7. Have 2 rolling boxes/areas on the sides of the game. Having to roll dice far away from the battle and/or move pieces off the board to the far side of the play area is painstaking and subject to accidents. Making battle-board battles quick and easy will save time.
8. Set up game night before if can.
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4. Don’t Play with newbies. This sounds mean ……
Yes it does! Thankfully some of us are happy to give them the experience to warrant your playing attentions Karl :-D
Nothing to do with wanting to win of course ……
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@Private:
4. Don’t Play with newbies. This sounds mean ……
Yes it does! Thankfully some of us are happy to give them the experience to warrant your playing attentions Karl :-D
Nothing to do with wanting to win of course ……
ha ha… I play newbies all the time, but there’s no getting around the fact playing newbies makes for a slower game… :lol:
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Have multiple copies of the rule book. We have 4 available.
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Siredblood’s card deck would help too because it has some of the more difficult to comprehend or misunderstood rules on the cards as well as each nation’s political situations. Every player would have a sort-of mini rule book in their hands.
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Karl7 and I seem to think alike…
This post was about what makes the game so LONG. Many of our suggestions may seem like they aren’t about fun, but the original question was about time. I’ve played 100s of live games and taught dozens of people how to play various games, and my observations derive from that experience
“someone should act as taskmaster” when I said this the reply was don’t touch my stuff lol
“newbs…” its fun and fine to try and integrate new players, but it isn’t going to be a brief process. The game is long and teaching makes it longer.
“paper money” I realize that everyone and their dog loves the paper money but I’ve observed that it adds time and adds slop
“set up beforehand” this is a great idea but its not possible at the game club or at tournaments where the door open time is specified
“people need to calculate odds with pen and paper” I can look at stacks of pieces and get a good enough idea of this, which is part of why live play with physical pieces is advantageous. Its part of the skill of the game
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Here’s a little something I do, that I’ve found really helps to shave a few minutes off every turn.
It might seem simple, but you’d be surprised how much time can be spent digging and returning pieces to their trays, if you don’t have a good system in place…http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=35904.msg1411574#msg1411574
You can see an example image in there at the bottom using 1942.2 but I adopt the same system in G40. Once I started doing this, I never went back. Now I’m a big proponent of grouping by shape, and trusting in color differentiation for easy recognition, rather than the other way round. Hard habit to break, for the OCD sculpt collector, but it works. Even chainsmoking degenerates like me can make the extra effort to be better orgnaized haha.
Also, like others have mentioned before and elsewhere too, my group separates combat movement, and combat proper with the purchase phase. So the phases like this…
repair, combat movement, purchase, combat, non com, placement, collect.
If you want to pick up the pace it’s highly effective for focusing your players. It doesn’t change anything compared to the standard phase order of “purchase, combat movement, combat proper” other than the speed with which your players will make decisions.interesting, i like the idea of sorting by unit type instead of faction, i may toy around with that in a smaller version to see how it feels before doing it with the G40 units (it’d be a huge pain to re-sort them again after, lol)
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