Sired's Map project - Updated- 4/16 - files available see first post

I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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@winteradler said in WinterAdler's Customization - G40 Setup Card Deck & more:

Hey everyone!

I am currently working on a game document.
The aim is to provide a better game overview and more comfort.
By means of national markers it is possible to mark out the grayed out symbols.

I would like to have a list of units,
Enter the ipc, bring in diplomacy and the victory cities.
Unfortunately, I have not found a solution for it, so the game underlay is not too big …

In 2012 “Minor Threat” aka “Children” created a nice design: https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/topic/16491/minor-threat-s-alpha-3-9-global-1940-complete-setup-charts?page=1

Just saw your ideas… I think his work is awesome!

I like your idea with cards for each land. Maybe I will use them and change design etc… Thanks for sharing your work!!!

Here is Imperial Leaders map too

https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=28677.0

Hi 77

You could try asking here:

https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=41376.msg1733200#msg1733200

or at the triplea site https://forums.triplea-game.org/

Idk much about it myself

@WorldWideArmy:

Hi All,

After building a custom table for my global 40 setup I was looking for other maps to use on the table.

Surprisingly I found there aren’t really any available in this size so I decided to spend a bit of time creating them from some of the great resources available.

If your looking for a copy of AA50 that fits your game table, you are in luck sir!

Download it here:

-http-boardgameconsole.com/AA50(Printable)32x70.pdf-

I’m considering building Guadalcanal next… what do you all want?

Frank

This link is broken…

Sounds like a fun project.  The fundamental problem you’d have to solve, however, is the fact that the country names and – even more problematically – the country borders that existed historically in WWI were in some cases quite different from what they were in WWII.If you make them accurate for WWI, you’ll eventually end up in an alternate-history situation in which you’re fighting WWII on a WWI map with WWI powers as players.  It can also be argued that the political extremism of the 1920s and 1930s that eventually led to WWII was a direct result of the way WWI ended (specifically, the Versailles Treaty), and that if you alter the end of WWI then you alter the situation that eventually led to WWII.  That’s fine if working in an alternate-history environment is something you’re comfortable with; you simply have to be aware that you’re dealing with alternate history.

In terms of the map problem, perhaps the only option that would cover all the bases accurately, regardless of the political situation at any given moment, would be to use a simple map that is purely topographical rather than political in its territorial divisions.  A supplementary element could be to add overlays (drawn on large acetate sheets, or something similar) that provide political borders which can be adjusted from decade to decade.

one additional comment:

I recommend to follow the map1942.2-thread in the AA1942 section, the latest version of the map is linked there.