Best

Slackaveli, the tech is the same as old rules and continued in to Global, except research is not lost like it is in Global.
NOs are:
Germany: 5 if Axis control all of: France, NW, Germany, Hung, Rom and Poland.
              5 if Axis control 3 of these: Baltic, E Poland, Ukraine, E Ukraine and Belorussia.
              5 if Axis control either Karelia or Caucasus.
Russia:    5 if Russia controls Archangel &no Allied units present onRussian controlled Territory
            10 if Allies control 3 of: Norway, Finland, Poland, Romania, Hung or Balkans.
UK:         5 if Allies control E and W Canada, Gib, Egy, Aus and S Africa.
              5 if Allies control any original Japanese territory.
              5 if Allies control either FrNce or Balkans.
Japan:     5 if control all: Manc, Kiangsu and French Indo- China.
             5  if con 4 of: Kwant, EI, Borneo, Phil, New Guinea or Solomons.
             5 if control one of: Hawaii, Aus or India.
US.         5 if con all West, Central and Eastern US.
             5 if con Philippines.
             5 if Allies control France.
             5 if control 3 of: Midway, Wake, Hawaii or Solomons.
Italy:      Do you need this?

you don’t really watch the VC count so much, you pretty much need the capitols (berlin+rome, moscow, Japan, UK, or DC) plus key territories in order to make the VC count.

Most people prefer 1941 to be honest. Most people like to have all their fighting in Europe. In 1942 japan doesn’t have 9 fighters and 3 carriers so the pacific campaign fairs much better.

@docfav7:

Global is going to be the way to go.  No doubt.  However, if time is a concern, Spring 1942 is still a great option.  We play this on Monday nights.  A couple of things though.  GET RID OF THE BOARD!  Download IL’s map and get it printed somewhere.  This is a must.  #2 get an extra set of money.  Poker chips, old style money, whatever.  Those 2 things alone make 1942 version worth playing.

Try it first. So many people dis the '42 board, when it is perfectly playable. Definitely try playing on it and see if you like it before spending a bunch of money to get a new one printed.

Hey Incline,

I was in the same boat with AA50 and perhaps this might help.  Here’s a post that I posted on fieldmarshalgames.com forum site.

“Here is a folding game/poker table that I built for Axis & Allies. Quite a few hours and dollars to put together and it being my first table, I think it turned out pretty good! Now I don’t have AA50 but I did, with time and effort, make my own version. The map was printed to 28x48” (map was created by Imperious Leader that I downloaded from Gameboardgeek.com) and I even went as far to make the combat board, National production/research chart and the nation cards. I repainted the pieces so they match because I don’t have AA50 and had to mix pieces together to replicate it. I must say it turned out well and it was a lot of fun!"

Here is the link to the post as well for more pics.
http://fieldmarshalgames.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=560

Here is the link for the AA50 manual.
http://www.wizards.com/%5CAvalonHill%5Crules%5CAxAl-AnEd_Rules.pdf

table5.jpg

Theres two more players in our roleplaying group who I plan on introducing A&A to. Though I personally prefer the intensity of a 1v1 battle. I find with 4-5 players there is invariably a weak link who’s lack of understanding of the game is exploited by opponents.

One thing not mentioned so far is that D Day (and similarly- Bulge) tend to be shorter games.  We can generally get a D-Day game over in the neighborhood of 1 1/2 to 2 hours.  That’s much less than some of the 6 hour classic bloodfests we’ve had.

Of the two, I’d probably go with D-Day as the objectives are clearly stated and the rules are pretty simple.

If you have $120 to spend, chances are you’ve won the game anyway.

$75 with shipping included is the best price i have seen for one copy. buy it.