That’ll do it - and after you have used your playing pieces for a while, you’ll see if you need to spray a new layer of matt varnish.
2-3 layers - each layer thinly sprayed - and dry 24 hours between each layer.
You units will last a lifetime:+1:
Prepping Infantry for Painting help needed
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So I started painting my first units about a month ago. I started with Japan and all I have left is the infantry. I have been prepping my pieces by scrapping flashing off, then I wash in warm water and soap and scrub with a toothbrush. After I give them overnight to dry really well I paint with primer, then leave to cure for 24 hours before painting. All my other pieces I haven’t had a lick of trouble but my infantry are proving to be real trouble. The paint keeps flaking off. After I ran into this the first time I stripped them down to bare and start over cleaning again extra carefully but still having the same problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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@coedewa
It’s more the chemistry and flexibility of the plastic, not any mistakes. I tried stiffening rifle barrels with super glue, to using a vinyl sealer hoping to get better adhesion. With no luck.
I’ve had some success touching up weapons with blk. sharpie.
Don’t know what happened to the base on the left. Almost looks like something spilled on it. -
@Mr-Kell
Thanks for the reply! So do you think once I get the pieces carefully painted and then varnish the crap out of them they will be a bit more resilient? Just seems like a lot of people on here paint their infantry and don’t complain about how fragile the paint appears on these pieces in particular. Also, if it’s the chemistry do you think custom infantry from another manufacturer might hold up better? Or even if the color the japan infantry makes it more susceptible than the other countries?Thanks
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@Mr-Kell said in Prepping Infantry for Painting help needed:
@coedewa
It’s more the chemistry and flexibility of the plastic, not any mistakes. I tried stiffening rifle barrels with super glue, to using a vinyl sealer hoping to get better adhesion. With no luck.
I’ve had some success touching up weapons with blk. sharpie.
Don’t know what happened to the base on the left. Almost looks like something spilled on it.@Nolimit said in 2020 Master Players List Version 3.0:
@jluna1273 NoLimit
Chicago, Illinois
Axis & Allies, SHOGUN (Milton Bradley version), Fortress AMERICA, Amerika, Warlords of Europe!!!Yo You still around I see !
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@GEN-MANSTEIN Dang right, and will be for Life (Especially over on the YouTube)!!!
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@coedewa
Yeah, not sure how other people keep theirs together. Was hoping someone would share their miracle primer with us.
I gave up on stiffening, the last attempt was with barrels and super glue, they just started breaking off at the hands. Ink lets it flex without losing it’s color. Up close as a miniature it’s a little iffy, but on the board it’s perfect as a game piece. Ankles I have just resigned myself to touching up periodically. Don’t think it’s the J color just the long thin nature of the sculpt allowing more bend.
I can personally say that HBG’s Axis neutral (pzf) & the Japanese paratroopers are great, had no problems with either. Would hope all their inf. sculpts are made from the same stuff.
Be safe. -
Thanks for the great info!! Really appreciate the help. Great to know about the HBG pieces holding up better.
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You could try scuffing the piece first with a fine scotchbrite pad till it’s dull. This won’t damage the piece at all, yet promote the mechanical bond from the paint to the plastic. You can also strengthen the chemical bond by adding a glaze medium to your paint. It’s 100% acrylic resin which is the binder in latex paint. This will thin your paint slightly and give you a bit more working time, it won’t change any color. Don’t forget to clearcoat with a dull matt or satin clear, as this will protect the peice from excessive handling. Both are sold at your local hobby store.
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@folewnik Thanks for the great ideas. A few follow up questions though…
What about the primer…should I somehow do the latex with it as well? If so I’m assuming I can’t use a spray primer.
Where would I find such a product?
Something like this??
https://www.michaels.com/liquitex-glazing-medium-16oz/D249517S.html?r=g&cm_mmc=PLASearch--google--MICH_Shopping_US_N_Art+Supplies_N_Smart_BOPIS_N-_-&Kenshoo_ida=&kpid=go_cmp-9972406790_adg-106296476328_ad-433378147599_pla-1006894698161_dev-c_ext-_prd-D249517S&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqdP9BRDVARIsAGSZ8AljhQwlpheJc9osM0i0kq7nNZGYiIK38ry9D-5hyrqqwwKI2H3F13kaAmdYEALw_wcBThanks!
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@coedewa Yes. That’s the product, though it’s much more than you need. I only use a few drops added to the paint I put in the well when I layout the colors I’m going to use. Or about 5%. You can add up to 50%, but that will make the color transparent. Great for shading,weathering,or dry brushing techniques. I use mostly Vallejo modeling colors I get at our local hobby store.
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@folewnik Ohh. I forgot to add you don’t need to add anything to the primer as they have all the binders and sealers they need. Scuffing is a critical step.
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Sweet, thanks man. I’ll give it a shot!
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