John Brown's Completed Painted German Forces!

@jluna1273

Thanks - there is more to come:+1:

@cavestone I also use vallejo paints. The key question here is are you brush painting, or using an airbrush, or both?

The Vallejo paints have a “Model Air” line that comes pre-thinned. You can buy a thinning product (from them) to add to the “Model Color” series paints, which are the exact same thing, just more concentrated and thicker.

If you’ve never used an airbrush, its a bit finicky–it requires regular cleaning and a without a good brush and compressor the paint will flow very inconsistently. The process will be very frustrating unless you use the pre-thinned paints because the brush can only blow paint that is within a certain set of thickness parameters that are difficult to achieve, especially if you are trying to mix the air in the brush’s reserve or in small quantities. That’s why having copies of both Model Air and Model Color is fine by me–unlike Warhammer 40K I’m using primarily earthy colors, greens, dunkelgelb and dunkelgrau… other AFV and camoflage colors and so i don’t need a collection of primary or bright colors.

But I recommend it. The airbrush creates a sublime, beautiful layer and slight mix variations can be used to create shadows, grades, etc. Then you go back over with your brush, adding highlights, lines, details. Then, back over again with a drybrushing…then back to the airbrush to blast Flory Wash all over it.

Can’t see your photos, you can’t post photos until you have a certain post count. I wouldn’t use water to thin paints, they are water soluble but the mix and viscosity is all wrong (though water is obv. cheap and easy to clean up)

As for oil-based paints, these require thinner to clean up, they are much more difficult to drybrush with and are not used for airbrushing. The days of the old testors paints is long behind us–even apple barrel paints are easier to work with and cheaper. The early painting methods were much more about glomming thick layers of paint onto lead miniatures and the modern approach with water based paint and a series of different techniques creates much better results.

@Harvard3X1 Thanks for the comment :)
The Panther is the regular panzer. The Tiger 2 is SS-Panzer and the E100 is Heavy SS- Panzer
The SS-Panzer can be produced by a max of 4 from round “late 1942” and cost 2 IPC upgraded from a normal panzer in Berlin. Attack at 4 and defend at 5
The Heavy SS-Panzer can be produced by a max of 2 from round “late 1944” and cost 2 IPC upgraded from a SS-Panzer in Berlin. Attacks and Defends at 5 and uses 2 dice. Its has 2 Hit Points as capital ships.

Been a while since I painted but I got the psycho paint brush and all of the Japanese units I wanted from HBG so now I will begin my goal of finishing the Japanese Air Force. Here is how I will be painting the Tony fighters. It was my first attempt at this level of detail and it will take some fine tuning but I am happy with the first one.

IMG_1840.JPG

Man, these are sweet! Great job on these! :-D

Thanks Spitfire38, for your kind words and encouragement, as well. Yes, looking forward to meeting you someday as well, whether painting or playing.

Thanks buddy! :-D

Cheers!

John

Thanks

@Albert:

@Spitfire38:

I have looked at I-94’s decals and thought about it… the only ones I have trouble with are the Russian stars. I enjoy hand painting the insignia and I feel like it makes it look more uniform when it’s all paint, but like you said, it would definitely save some time  :lol:

Well you could save some effort there as Moscow ordered upper wing stars to be painted out on the eve of the German invasion……plain green was also changed to green with a black disruptive camo pattern   http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/index.html

I didn’t know that they painted over the top-wing stars. Thanks for sharing! If I were to paint them again, I’d probably leave them on or use decals, just for easy recognition on the game board, but I like knowing what was historically accurate.