Resizing custom map files

After reading the threads, I figured maybe this way would be best to find an artist who can help. I’m looking for someone to help our monastery finish it’s customization of AA Global 40 and possible help, with what is necessary, on the pieces for Global War 1936…… the more intricate, the more monks like games like this. We have lots of pieces that are donated and pretty interesting. We would be more than willing to give the leftovers away. The “Ratte” Landkreuzer P. 1000 tank is my favorite. We have 3

TRICK OUT YOUR OOB MAPS WITH ARTWORK CUT FROM YOUR SPARE/DUPLICATE RULEBOOKS, LINK IS HERE!!! https://youtu.be/QMkfdDdvqus

Oh your talking about 1942.2, well the post should read that. Officially , 2nd edition is revised

Part 4: Starting the ships, adding decals to the tanks, skin tones on the soldiers

Today spent some time adding paint to the sprayed ships, including painting the water jettisons on the subs black (this was very tricky and ended up looking a little sloppy). Advice for painting the jettisons: toothpicks are not small enough! If you do use toothpicks, you’ll have to dab a dot of black for each tiny jettison.

The battleships were a bit easier, and painting the decks, bridge, and smoke stacks were all done in silver. I plan on adding the final grey coat last after the deck and stacks/bridge dry. I experimented with how to add the national emblem, and will probably opt for a white background with a red dot on the bow of the ship. In the future I may do that with the rear end of the ship.

I painted the tranny smoke stacks silver and added a white background for the emblem on the destroyers. All in all, the Japanese navy is coming along nicely.

The armor is pretty much done. I added a white flag to the front side of the armor and will be adding the red dots later. For the aircraft, I’ll be adding a red band around the rear part of the plane. I was debating between sky blue and red and may alternate just for some variety.

The soldiers got some skin! And I just want to say that adding the paint alone brings out the contours of their facial features in an excellent manner on their own. I may add a touch of black to certain areas of the face but that will be a last step. The next step will be panting their uniforms, rifles, and helmets.

After all this is done, I will be spray painting the japanese bombers white, the aircraft carrier black, and then will add the details to those. The Japanese are about 55% done all in all and I’m pleased with the results so far even if they do look a bit amateurish. Stay tuned.

IMG_6405.JPG IMG_6404.JPG IMG_6403.JPG IMG_6402.JPG

Wolfshanze: sounds cool, that would probably be a bit safer when it comes to spilling ect…which is going to be an issue with my table :/

working on the table at work, due to summer holidays i cant continue untill mid august, i’ll post finished pics then…

Fenris

@Imperious:

You can’t teach this because the learning curve is high for Illustrator CS, You just have to do it and struggle and it may take 10 years to be really good. I do suggest NEVER USE PAINT SHOP PRO. Their is nothing “pro” about it. It will destroy your computer from day one. Also, to save a few hundred bucks, buy an educational version ( its the same) using a student ID, you can just join the school and not even register for classes, just to get the ID and buy the program in the student store–make sure they have it in stock first.

You could register for a night class in basic Photoshop and Illustrator which would get you that student ID card and an introduction to the software.

Thanks LHoffman,

Your appreciation is my inspiration… because I refuse to use a sheet of glass, my research has lead me to a material called styrene (google it) which is a type of plastic sheet that can be directly printed on. All indications point to this method being the last alternative to glass and although it cost around $240, it looks to be my best option. Even after flushing $300 so far in a crappy print, and installation complications, I’m happy with this new direction if it turns out the way I’ve been told it will. Basically it’s flexible plastic, so it should lie flat without air pockets getting trapped, and because it doesn’t get laminated, the colors should be slightly brighter. If it is sensitive to scratching than there is a clear film sheet by 3M I can look into, that’s where I’m at right now.