@Harvard3X1 Thanks for the comment :)
The Panther is the regular panzer. The Tiger 2 is SS-Panzer and the E100 is Heavy SS- Panzer
The SS-Panzer can be produced by a max of 4 from round “late 1942” and cost 2 IPC upgraded from a normal panzer in Berlin. Attack at 4 and defend at 5
The Heavy SS-Panzer can be produced by a max of 2 from round “late 1944” and cost 2 IPC upgraded from a SS-Panzer in Berlin. Attacks and Defends at 5 and uses 2 dice. Its has 2 Hit Points as capital ships.
Global Gaming Table Threads and Pictures
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@CWO:
Terrific table in a terrific-looking game room! Very, very nice. I’m intrigued by what seems to be the French flag: is that an eagle I see in the middle part of it?
Thanks. It’s in my basement but I can’t wait to finish it. The flag is the Italian Social Republic which was used by Italy in 1944 as their war flag.
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Awesome table PFC Pander, really awesome… love the detail and everything is so organized and clean. You should be really proud of your creation and I hope everyone who plays there appreciates your hard work.
Cheers.
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PFC Pander, That is a great looking table. I like the edges where the players sit. It looks beveled so that the player can lean against it. Did you use a planer for this or cut it out on atable saw. Either way it is a nice touch.
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PFC Pander, That is a great looking table. I like the edges where the players sit. It looks beveled so that the player can lean against it. Did you use a planer for this or cut it out on atable saw. Either way it is a nice touch.
The edge is beveled. I borrowed a router to do it. Literally only took 2 minutes. I’m glad I did it because now you can put your arms and elbows on the hand rail without any discomfort.
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@Young:
Awesome table PFC Pander, really awesome… love the detail and everything is so organized and clean. You should be really proud of your creation and I hope everyone who plays there appreciates your hard work.
Cheers.
Thanks! Thank you for all your pics and videos which I was able to use for ideas and inspiration. I think my friends like it because during our first game on it this week the losing side would not surrender making the game last 18 hours. I have always wanted a custom table since the first time I played AA when I was 12, glad I finally have it thanks to the help of axisandallies.org
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I forgot about this sticky. I posted in the A&AG40 about the table & room I set up over time in my basement. Jut replaced the carpet, padding & some trim work. Now it’s just way too cozy to come back upstairs. Here’s the link.
http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=37393.0
Regards, Steve
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I forgot about this sticky. I posted in the A&AG40 about the table & room I set up over time in my basement. Jut replaced the carpet, padding & some trim work. Now it’s just way too cozy to come back upstairs. Here’s the link.
Regards,� Steve
This is a great setup, wonderful place to play Axis and Allies - now if I could only figure out how to win more often :-)
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These are some pictures of a table I built in Afghanistan. A couple of buddies and I wanted to find a way to spend some of our down time and decided on A&A Global. I decided we needed a table. Not really one for the game room back home, but it serves it purpose well for the excellent games we have had thus far!
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Excellent work H20. Looks like a well suited table for the game.
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That is such a cool idea. I love the top that folds over to put the game away while on duty. Keeps everyone from messing with it (at least deters everyone from messing with it).
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I love the top that folds over to put the game away while on duty. Keeps everyone from messing with it (at least deters everyone from messing with it).
It also has potential civilian applications as a protective device against interference by cats and other domestic pets.
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I appreciate the kind words about the table. We made do with the best we could. A couple of guys are leaving so it may not get the same amount of time on it, otherwise we were thinking about printing out a larger game board and making some other adjustments, but it really has served us well. I am excited to return to the States and create a table/room like some of these other superb ones I have seen on these posts!
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That is such a cool idea. I love the top that folds over to put the game away while on duty. Keeps everyone from messing with it (at least deters everyone from messing with it).
Valid point ;) We considered putting a little latch and lock on it, but it may have only instigated people to mess with it…
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Great collection. Trying to post some shots of my custom table for Imperious Leader’s Spring 1942 map, but need a few more posts apparently before I am allowed to post images.
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Wow. Im out of my league here. Some truly amazing works of art.
We started dreaming of a table after a utube visit to young grasshopper’s channel.
Using boardgamegeek’s (table options forum) website with different table construction options broken down.
We decided on a pedestal 2’8"×6’ with a loose 3/4 sanded pine 4x8 sheet of plywood for a table top. Cross braces extended past plywood on the sides to support, a 2x4 frame on egde like a leaning rail. Plan is to upholster this for padding and add a sheet inside to act as a cover, creating a vault to keep the super weapons (3 cats) off the game. Its 42 inches high, 8feet 3inches long and 4feet 3inches wide. With a 48x96 inch map possible. It’s a walkaround back saver table with barstools.Currently using 1940 gobal (oob). Lots of room around the map and cover leaves it setup between games.
We added a 1/8th of an inch extra space all around the plywood table top and cover, so it can be removed and be potentially upholstered like a poker table. This also cuts down on weight while moving the table. Pedestal is also removable. Built it on the deck, so it needed to come apart for move to basement anyway. 4 piece separations made it manageable for 2 people to move relatively easy.
To date its a 150$ Canadian, build for everything screws wood, and an extra sheet of plywood for a cover, taxes the works. Using only a pencil, tape measure, framing square, drill and circular saw (store can cut it for you so the saw is optional).
Now we need to Play test for possible issues and must-have add-ons. And figure a good way to support the cover. If we upholster the leaning edge i can hide the staples with a wood/metal strip to keep it up, its currently smaller than the opening.
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Need a few more post for pictures. I’ll wander the forums!
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@Rank:
Wow. Im out of my league here.
Actually, you should give yourself more credit than that because the table you’ve built sounds pretty sophisticated from your description. It’s definitely way ahead of mine, which is mostly assembled from off-the-shelf components with very little extra customization (other than the fact that the components are being used for a different purpose than the ones for which they were manufactured). Looking forward to seeing pictures of your setup once you’ve gotten over the attachment-posting minimum, which I think is around ten posts.
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Thanks cwo mark!
I doubt I’ll ever match any of those finishes though. Some true heirloom pieces cherrywood or tiles all look amazing.
The hero to my table was Dad. His framing knowledge converted a wobbly table to a nice braced table. A 2 day head sratcher :? into a 4 hour project with all his tips. Our group has no tradesmen, so the preplanned gaps for future materials and bracing etc are all his. We would have figured it out but this way we only built it once :lol: -
Hey, I don’t have enough posts to actually post pics or a link on here yet, but if anyone wants to check out the table I’m just wrapping up, it’s right here:
I used my old gaming table (also custom by me) as a base. I used a 4x8 oak ply ($50) from Home Depot. The surrounds are also oak planks (~$150 total). Stain is Bombay Oak. It came out sloppier than I had hoped, but I’m always terrible at staining. The board is YG’s taken to Kinkos. It’s 6’6" ($170). I wanted it 7’, but they kind of screwed up and left 6" of white on each side. It worked out OK though since it meant I could fit it on the 4x8 board and still have room on the side for a rolling area. I did about 10 coats of spray on modge podge to keep the beer off. It came out a little rougher to the feel (like sandpaper) than I’d hoped, but I think it’ll smooth out with play.
The piece holders are 4" cup holders from some boat store. They were .67 each. If I were to do it again, I would have done 3" instead. I used a 4" hole cutter on my drill. Was very simple, but you don’t want to do it on a cordless. You’ll drain a battery every 3rd hole and it’ll take forever. Rolling area is just a piece of foam with green felt glued to it. I’m going to make a green felt cover too so I can save a game and play something else on top. I think that’s it.
All told, not including the game and my old table, it probably cost about $400.I still have some finishing touches to put on it. I have some bronze owl feet corner guards coming in that will go on all the corner pieces, and I’m going to do built in abaci at some point. I’m not wild about the ones I have now.
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You only need 10 posts I think, get into a discussion on another thread and than come back and post pics… would love to see them.