John Brown's 96x48 Global 1940 Waterproof Metal Map

@lt-dan well if you have any interest in adding the fascist Italy symbol and city territories later to create a new additional map let me know! I will likely grab your G40 board but would be interested in a hbg 36 style board but for g40 if you decide to make one.

Wow. I had inquired in previous threads on this forum and had only been directed to versions that had multiple personal touches on them. This is way better than mine! Lol, I’ll take it though.

Do you have any guidance on printing your own map? I hear neoprene is pretty sharp.

@CWO-Marc said in Physically modifying 1942 2nd edition map.:

My pleasure. By the way, I wrote “acrylic” above but I’ve double-checked and the correct term is actually acetate sheets, a.k.a. projector transparencies; see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transparency_(projection).

Thanks for letting me know. They’d probably give me a weird look if I asked for acrylic. 😆😆

And on a related point: if you look at an online map of the world and place a rectangular sheet of paper on it so that one of its long edges lies on the equator (alternately covering, for purposes of comparison, the bottom half and the top half), you’ll notice that most of the world’s land masses are in the northern hemisphere.  All of North America, all of Europe, virtually all of Asia, and much of Africa are located there.  The main land masses in the southern hemisphere are South America, the lower part of Africa, Australia, and Antarctica; the rest of the southern hemisphere is mainly water, which means that for A&A map purposes it’s mostly wasted space.  Oceania, a.k.a. the Pacific Islands, including Australia and New Zealand, did see significant action in WWII, so its inclusion on an A&A map is quite relavant…but by the same token Antarctica is a land mass that’s traditionally (and with good reason) omitted from A&A maps.

Wow, those must have taken you a long time to do. So much color variations, you have there, for the Italians. Super job on these. :-)

If you are really looking for a good finish on all your HBG pieces, you could buy a couple small cans of differing lacquers and test each one. $20 should get almost 3 cans worth. It may be a waste to some degree, but at least you can know for sure which one works best.

I have a flat Testors lacquer/sealant spray that I used on Tall Paul’s finished pieces. Granted, these were painted first, so the effect may be thrown off. However, I will say that I did not observe any level of gloss on the HBG or OOB pieces after I applied it. It was quite flat as advertised. FWIW.

Fellow A&A Gamers,

––This thread will eventually contain ALL of the Anzac units that I’ve had detailed & painted by the “WARMACHINE Team”.

––So far the list includes:

ANZAC

ANZAC ARMY
Anzac Infantry
––Anzac (Infantry, Rifle)…(Starting at message #1)
Anzac Armored Vehicles
––M-3 Stuart “Honey” (Tank, Light)…Outback Camo scheme…(Starting at message # )

–-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Everyone.

----Here are the Anzac Rifle Infantry that Chad Coffman, a.k.a. “Allworkandnoclay”, painted for me. All 20 of the Australian Infantry, nick-named “Diggers”, after their WWI fight at Galipoli, are shown here in a group portrait just after completion by Chad. Note the intricate Anzac ensign he painted on their bases. This guys painting talent is simply awesome! So just sit back, put another shrimp on the barbie, and enjoy, mate.

“Tall Paul”
anzac_inf2b.jpg