3D Printing Files

@cwo-marc
And when you consider how all the other units, tanks, fighters, bombers, and infantry are all their own scales, having consistency in class seems to make the most sense. At least to me. Even if units are the same size in real life, as you said, its easier for non-historians/enthusiasts to pick up the game if unit type x is scale size x.
Maybe if this was just a naval game or a land war game, then all units could be the same scale. As 3D printing becomes more common, I was interested in hearing how others approached this.
Thanks

@midnight_reaper I have damage dials that I put underneath factories, naval yards and airfields to show how much damage. The lego flames I also use for damaged ships as well.

As for the color, it’s whatever filament I choose. That was shiny bronze. Camera doesn’t do them justice.

Thanks for the feedback.

“The War Game” and others address this by letting you buy all the units for every team, with different costs. So China pays 8 for tanks, Most powers pay 6, Germany 5 etc. This makes things more complex, but also more flexible.

Thanks for the information guys! I’ve been wondering this for a while.  There’s a resized version( I’d post the link here but not allowed yet) but it’s stripped of a bunch of the additions I like.  The thread title is “Cleaned-up G40 map / 96x48” (Preview)"

DCC,  are you willing to do split sets? As in, im broke and have og factories and only need one type of factory sculpt.
I went to YG site, but my phone wont display the pieces. Anyone mind posting pics?

Thanks LHoffman,

Your appreciation is my inspiration… because I refuse to use a sheet of glass, my research has lead me to a material called styrene (google it) which is a type of plastic sheet that can be directly printed on. All indications point to this method being the last alternative to glass and although it cost around $240, it looks to be my best option. Even after flushing $300 so far in a crappy print, and installation complications, I’m happy with this new direction if it turns out the way I’ve been told it will. Basically it’s flexible plastic, so it should lie flat without air pockets getting trapped, and because it doesn’t get laminated, the colors should be slightly brighter. If it is sensitive to scratching than there is a clear film sheet by 3M I can look into, that’s where I’m at right now.