I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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1940 Global table & painted pieces
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Almost done. All I have left to do are the 5 cities belonging to the United Kingdom. The other 14 are complete.
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Great progress! This project is an interesting reverse-twist on Churchill’s famous wartime remark that “the lights are going out all over Europe” – in this case, they’re coming on all over Europe (and the rest of the world too).
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Guys,
@CWO:
Great progress! This project is an interesting reverse-twist on Churchill’s famous wartime remark that “the lights are going out all over Europe” – in this case, they’re coming on all over Europe (and the rest of the world too).
––Pardon me for saying so but the pics look like the lights are Red making a lot of new “Red Light Districts” all over the world. I would have expected the “Great Gargantua” to have said this. Sorry, but I just couldn’t help myself. (GRIN)
“Tall Paul”
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@Tall:
Guys,
––Pardon me for saying so but the pics look like the lights are Red making a lot of new “Red Light Districts” all over the world. I would have expected the “Great Gargantua” to have said this. Sorry, but I just couldn’t help myself. (GRIN)
“Tall Paul”
Ha ha, good one.
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@Tall:
––Pardon me for saying so but the pics look like the lights are Red making a lot of new “Red Light Districts” all over the world. I would have expected the “Great Gargantua” to have said this. Sorry, but I just couldn’t help myself. (GRIN)
We can also update an old Cold War slogan, and combine it with a reference to the kind of lighting technology that is being used on this table, to produce the phrase “Better LED than Red!”
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Guys,
@CWO:
@Tall:
––Pardon me for saying so but the pics look like the lights are Red making a lot of new “Red Light Districts” all over the world. I would have expected the “Great Gargantua” to have said this. Sorry, but I just couldn’t help myself. (GRIN)
We can also update an old Cold War slogan, and combine it with a reference to the kind of lighting technology that is being used on this table, to produce the phrase “Better LED than Red!”
––“Classic!” :-D
“Tall Paul”
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Worked on these while training at Camp Parks, CA. Our nights were free, so this is what one does to stay out of trouble. Now that I am back home, I should have all my cities lit and ready for this weekend’s game.
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Worked on these while training at Camp Parks, CA. Our nights were free, so this is what one does to stay out of trouble. Now that I am back home, I should have all my cities lit and ready for this weekend’s game.
That’s a beautiful fleet you have there. The battleships seem to be painted in a combination of Haze Grey and Deck Blue; out of curiosity, to which one of the US Navy’s numbered camouflage measures does this correspond? I once saw something similar in a book about the Iowa-class battleships.
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@CWO:
That’s a beautiful fleet you have there.� The battleships seem to be painted in a combination of Haze Grey and Deck Blue; out of curiosity, to which one of the US Navy’s numbered camouflage measures does this correspond?� I once saw something similar in a book about the Iowa-class battleships.
Thanks, I really like how they turned out. I saw this paint scheme on a thread started by Spitfire38. He stated that it was “Measure 22”.
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And here is the link that Spitfire38 posted regarding the paint scheme.
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And here is the link that Spitfire38 posted regarding the paint scheme.
http://abbot.us/DD629/fletcher/camouflage.shtmlGreat, thanks.
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And all the Victory Cities are lit and ready for this weekend’s game.
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That’s awesome one of the best yet!
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And all the Victory Cities are lit and ready for this weekend’s game.
Congratulations – great work! And the timing is nice because the upcoming weekend is the long Labor Day one, which is well suited to long games.
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Can I get some feedback on my Japanese armor? I think I like it, but I am open to suggestions for improvement before I mass produce.
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Jluna,
––Nice paint jobs, my friend. IMHO painted units add that extra layer of depth to a game that you can totally emerse yourself in. Keep up the good work.
“Tall Paul”
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Looks good.
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The biggest problem I’ve found with painting is trying to keep them looking realistic but distinct enough to tell units apart for people playing with me that don’t know the difference between a Sherman and a Matilda II. Yeah, I know there’s decals but I don’t even want to go there. LOL
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That’s why I’m resistant to painting mine - I’m always explaining which ship is which as it is. I finally color coded the tips of the ships - not historical but practical.
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@Der:
That’s why I’m resistant to painting mine - I’m always explaining which ship is which as it is. I finally color coded the tips of the ships - not historical but practical.
I’m still working on painting. I’m not even going to attempt painting everything. I’m at the point where the ones I do have painted will be used as “veteran” units. They will be mostly for eye candy and just for fun.
There are some damn fine painters here and I totally respect thier work. However there is no way I’m spending the time and effort to decal units. Unfortunately to realize my complete vision of the perfect Axis & Allies set I’d have to spend a fortune to get all decals I need plus some nicer equipment and tools for painting and modding.
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