I would pay $1000 Dollars for a fully painted Euro/Pacific game set.
You’re not serious (and you’ve provided no strings). A couple cans of spray paint is only going to cost you some change. eh eh eh - I know, you are referring to detailing, but I couldn’t resist.
Track - Almost there! Looking forward to seeing those pics. My pieces were? That’s so cool - cheers man. I was inspired to paint mine after seeing Capt. Kiwi’s (his work is posted on here somewhere) and an Air Force fella named Sam Hill (his stuff is on BBG, AA50th). I’ve been painting minis for … I don’t know, a long, long time - but 15mm was the smallest I’d ever done. You know, I don’t think I would have went through so much trouble with trying to get unique pieces from other places and painting them for my AA50th set if I’d known that FMG and HBG were going to produce such nice sculpts… but oh well, now I’ll have all sorts of units to use for house rules or just have in a game to represent different types 8-)
Chag - I’m on exactly the same page in regard to the painting techniques. Started writing up some technique posts - haven’t finished them yet because they require some pics (and kinda strapped for time lately). Though I do use black as a ‘shader’ for parts I really want to emphasize sometimes. And I have to admit, I forget my own 12’’ viewing distance rule on occasion - its the damn magnifier that my gal gave me for my birthday… (I didn’t have one when I painted my AA50th). I had to resist the urge to re-paint my 50th when I started to look at them through the lens… but ya don’t play the game with a magnifier… at least, I’d hope not. Eh eh eh - yeah, the Germans are my favorite to paint as well (the “bad guys” always have the coolest uniforms/“look” eh eh eh). Though a close second is the Americans, not sure if its my patriotism surfacing or because of my family’s tradition of serving in the military.
I know you guys probably comb the Internet for images before painting as well - but here’s one that I drew upon a lot. Mainly because it has so many different nation’s units all on one site (as oppose to the vast multitudes of individuals sites/images scattered everywhere with individual searches).
http://ww2drawings.jexiste.fr/index.htm
What always amazes me is the crazy units that never made a significant appearance - always thought it would be interesting to have some kinda of game/version of A&A where just the zany prototypes/ experimental units are used. “Mishap” rolls or “breakdowns” would be a must eh eh eh Especially the aircraft - there were some really strange designs - and would love to paint some minis like Germany’s HE-176, VTO Interceptor (rocket interceptor!), Fieseler Fi-103R-IV, Flettner (early helicopters) - that’s just few of the Germans, there are a whole bunch of strange war machines.
For a set painted as well as All Dice and No Clay did (not sure on the spelling) With roundels painted at their feet.
I would……
Or maybe im just really good at photoshop :-D
For a set painted as well as All Dice and No Clay did (not sure on the spelling) With roundels painted at their feet.
I would……
Or maybe im just really good at photoshop :-D
Well you need to contact him pronto! TallPaul (I think? or someone) posted numerous times that he’s painting theirs, so it sounds like he takes commissions. Good luck in getting a painted set Oz, it really does enhance the game with painted minis. And btw, you might want to look into other avenues of payment, I wouldn’t suggest sending cash through the mail…
Pfftp…
If it were the new CANADIAN $100’s on the table, it might have caught my eye.
Pfftp…
If it were the new CANADIAN $100’s on the table, it might have caught my eye.
EH eh eh - I like that your five cent coins have a beaver. And isn’t there a moose on a coin? When I was a kid I thought that was pretty nifty.
Has anyone ever played Axis and Allies with REAL money?
How much currency would you need?
Assume USD :D
Probably $700 would do?
50 Tens
32 Fives
40 Ones
Has anyone ever played Axis and Allies with REAL money?
How much currency would you need?
Assume USD :D
Probably $700 would do?
50 Tens
32 Fives
40 Ones
Ask Oztea to break down those hondos he has pictured and use them in his next game, he just scampered off to a cash machine to take a photo of $1000 so it shouldn’t be a problem. ehehehe
Cash machines only give out 500 at a time….in 20s
I keep $1000 of cash in a safe place in case of some sort of unforseen incident…
If the internet crashed and ATMs everwhere exploded, everyone else would have only their useless debit cards while I would lord over my town, a veritable Bill Gates.
Cash machines only give out 500 at a time….in 20s
I keep $1000 of cash in a safe place in case of some sort of unforseen incident…
If the internet crashed and ATMs everwhere exploded, everyone else would have only their useless debit cards while I would lord over my town, a veritable Bill Gates.
Hmm… if the Internet crashed (a global wide EMP?), and the ATMs everywhere exploded… I think there are some serious problems going on, and I think paper money at that point would be as valuable as the paper it was printed on.
Wait… so you’re saying you’re going to use your ‘secret stash’ to buy a painted set?
So where is this ‘safe place’ :evil: ?
In my back yard fallout shelter thats 10 feet below ground with battery backup and two years of food.
Right beside my guns and gold bullion, precious stones and all my other Mad Max gear.
:-D
Just kidding. Its in a shoe box
…well no, I wouldnt use my secret stash for a painted set
I have other money…the Benjamans picture was just to convey how serious I was about the issue.
I dont even think $1000 dollars is unreasonable. Considering that it costs $150 for both the games (Euro+Pacific) new in box, maybe $50 dollars for the Paints, brushes. That leaves shipping, which may be $50, and time paid for the painter. Which with somewhere in the ballpark of 750 pieces from both sets thats a dollar per piece.
In my back yard fallout shelter thats 10 feet below ground with battery backup and two years of food.
Right beside my guns and gold bullion, precious stones and all my other Mad Max gear.:-D
Just kidding. Its in a shoe box
Dammit - I’ll ignore that you told me its a shoebox… I like the other answer better. :-D
i would never paint anything for money i would worry endlessly that they would feel ripped off and disapointed.
I’m not sure $1000 would cover it. When I get serious about painting I can paint for 3 hours after work for 3 weeks just to do one faction. Considering there is 11 factions (Counting US and UK as different factions on each map) that is a rough estimate of 495 hours. $750 would be ~$1.66/hour.
Before I started painting I thought $1000 for a set would be fair too, but I was amazed how much time I spent getting as far as I did. I’m not even done yet.
Some people might paint faster or slower depending on their skill or how much detail they are trying to add.
I’m not sure $1000 would cover it. When I get serious about painting I can paint for 3 hours after work for 3 weeks just to do one faction. Considering there is 11 factions (Counting US and UK as different factions on each map) that is a rough estimate of 495 hours. $750 would be ~$1.66/hour.
Before I started painting I thought $1000 for a set would be fair too, but I was amazed how much time I spent getting as far as I did. I’m not even done yet.
Some people might paint faster or slower depending on their skill or how much detail they are trying to add.
Precisely what I was say’in early Track. The numbers just don’t add up…
I guess if the buyer covered supplies (2 new games in box) shipping and paint it might be more reasonable.
or if the painter developed som kind of system
I paint 28mm scale Warhammer models….and I have a hell of a lot of them
I also have a job and money, so I can afford to pay someone to paint 750+ plastic dudes
After painting my figures, I bought a varnish/shading product that you dip the models into adding a protective coating and shadeing to all the recesses. Dramaticly increasing the detail in the model for almost no time consumption.
If an A&A painter first dipped them like easter eggs. Then detailed them. Then dipped them in a varnish I think they would look pretty sweet.
I guess if the buyer covered supplies (2 new games in box) shipping and paint it might be more reasonable.
or if the painter developed som kind of systemI paint 28mm scale Warhammer models….and I have a hell of a lot of them
I also have a job and money, so I can afford to pay someone to paint 750+ plastic dudes
After painting my figures, I bought a varnish/shading product that you dip the models into adding a protective coating and shadeing to all the recesses. Dramaticly increasing the detail in the model for almost no time consumption.If an A&A painter first dipped them like easter eggs. Then detailed them. Then dipped them in a varnish I think they would look pretty sweet.
Shipping and material costs, and a system, still does not break even. Whether the client/customer has a job and money is not important (other than the fact that if they have neither than they probably aren’t going to be a customer). How much they’ll pay in comparison to what it would take to break even considering min. wage is what we were referring to.
That being said… a lot of variables to consider that can’t necessarily be quantified. Some of them situational: If the painter is unemployed, I suppose anything is ok (but then we get into what is fair for paying for another’s work that is both an artistic endeavor and kinda “factory work”… which involves a whole host of things to consider). Or if the painter is independently wealthy, I suppose it also doesn’t matter. There’s also the less tangible side of it… you like the idea of your little troops out there on some other board being appreciated, your troops fighting the good fight many miles away… and/or if you like painting them so much that time and money is not in question.
*shrug
I’m familiar with some of the products used for the shading process you mention, I’ve used them on my 25mm & 28mm figs in the past. But at 15mm and below you start running into problems - the recesses of the piece are so small the liquid has a tendency to blotch. Not always - sometimes it turns out quite nice. There’s also the problem of the material itself - sometimes the end results are different on plastic then lead/pewter. I think I’ve even read some post on here somewhere about someone who had all of their (plastic) figs ‘bubble’ after using it. At the end of the day, I wouldn’t trust that as a shading technique on A&A plastics. It might turn out really cool… but I wouldn’t want to risk a huge “do-over” (or worse, ruining the minis). In regard to the protective coating - yeah, I agree. I use the spray cans from hobby stores, not a dull or gloss coat, the regular sealant (though that’s a personal preference, I do like the look of some of the glossed pieces I’ve seen).
You have a link to any pics of those models Oz? I’d be interested - the Warhammer line produces some pretty cool sculpts.
I pulled from wikipedia various aircraft roundels and made a draft decal sheet at 1000 x 600 pixels. The roundels are too large in the draft to go on aircraft, they would have be shrunk down quite a bit. Sadly, my posting skills are not nearly as good as my cut and paste an image together skills. Is there some trick to attaching a .png image file of about 150kb?
Thanks
It is the warhammer line of products, 40k to be specific.
I do not have very many pics right now, though in the future ill try to take some.
Deg - yeah, was led to Wiki’s roundels in the past, thought it was nifty but at the end of the day… nothing to do with them except perhaps use them to decorate a dice tower. Hmm… don’t know the tricks you need Deg…
Let me know Oz… I like the 40k figs…
So think of this, my friend had an original classic game that went through a fire and the shading from the fire made some cool looking pieces. I’ve had the dog find some pieces that were dropped and chewed up and they look like they’ve been in a battle, I still would like to take a few Naval units and cut them in half and put them on a base so they would look like their sinking
