Plastic Playing Pieces

Hi Axis & allies community,

This is my fist post here, so let me intruduce myself shorty. I live in Bruges and play A&A now for nearly twenty years. ( all the edtions) It is an unique game.
I’ ve only played it twice, but im my opinion so far, AA50 is the best edition (playwise). I love miniatures, i buy games even lousy ones, only for the plasic pieces included. So i was delighted to see the quality and historicity of the A&A pieces improve every edition, but disappointed with the last game. My initial awe when opening soon disappeared ( great box and boxes, lousy miniatures and map).They indeed missed an oportunity, still a great game.

Regarding this thread:
50€ ok for me
A) Pieces: a new replacing set would be OK, for the following reasons:

• historical acuracy pieces; rather OK
• colors: Italy / USSR problem
• quality: to much bended broken, and simply ugly
• SCALE: it should be nice to have pieces withe right scale: infantry 1/72 (20 mm) mobile & artillery units approx. 1/300( 6mm), air units 1/700 (2mm) and sea units approx. 1/2000. It looks better and types ar easily recognisable.
  The tiny destroyers and subs could be glued on clear plastic bases.

B) Pieces: a set with new pieces fine (but not realy necessary

• new rules
• not a tactical game:  a tank represents a mobile armoured army, a soldier a mostly infantry army. (in fact both types of armies have artillery included). A fighter represents a mixed air fleet, a bomber a strategic air fleet (So to represent escorting fighters you can increase the defense value of the bomber in the air combats optional rule)
• if you want new rules and pieces you can srape them together; other editions, miniatures, selfmade, other games, …)
• but new pieces are always welcome.

Greetings
El Stef

the AA planes are 1/700 scale

Here are some pics of some possible units to be represented:

Grey light=Italian
Tan= UK
Grey Dark= German
Yellow= Japanese
Olive= USA
Brown= Soviet

http://www.mediafire.com/?mraygemmjyx
http://www.mediafire.com/?o3nqqm4mzuz
http://www.mediafire.com/?wl2ljmimgmg
http://www.mediafire.com/?40nxjmnzzjg
http://www.mediafire.com/?ncmyz3ynjyh
http://www.mediafire.com/?mxozg35nj5t
http://www.mediafire.com/?35lyzjycyvy
http://www.mediafire.com/?mzfetqodeht
http://www.mediafire.com/?tiyvv44ykqt
http://www.mediafire.com/?ymn5yijbztn
http://www.mediafire.com/?zdl2mm2nmxe
http://www.mediafire.com/?hazzggmettg
http://www.mediafire.com/?zym0j5vnjzr
http://www.mediafire.com/?k5w0g5wnxnk
http://www.mediafire.com/?mznzlttqmlm
http://www.mediafire.com/?atzqj0twwju
http://www.mediafire.com/?kkzdqyymjwt
http://www.mediafire.com/?zkrom1m4e1w
http://www.mediafire.com/?nlwmwjnhozt
http://www.mediafire.com/?ajz3j3rgtzm
http://www.mediafire.com/?mj0y2imyjoj
http://www.mediafire.com/?nmeg3dwrjq0
http://www.mediafire.com/?yzk1eyngntk
http://www.mediafire.com/?knojmgymzr1

i thought the only nation that needed a colour change on its units was Italy (to prevent confusion between Russian and Italion pieces). i don’t think japan needs one though

well they asked for all pictures for all possible nations. I got french too but it might crack my camera

i’m surprised the japanese didn’t break the camera, that yellow hurts my eyes!

About scales:

The playing pieces are for the moment around this scale:(approximatively)
INF: 20mm - 1/72
ARM: 6mm ) 1/300
ART: 6mm - 1/200 ?
FTR&STR: 1/700
NAV: varying between 1/2000 & 1/3500

There is lot you can buy or use from other A&A games. Of course painting wil be necessary and it is expensive. Often those models are too fragile for A&A ( especially when i’m losing)

• INF; a lot on 1/72 scale

• ARM: GHQ 1/285

• AIR units; 1/700 Aoshima, Pitroad and Fujimi (very nice models !)

• NAVAL: on the 1/2400 scale a battleship is around 10 cm. The A&A war at sea models are good but to big (1/1800)
  We could consider 1/2400 ( BB = 8 cm) or even 1/6000 (Figurehead) . Smaller units have to be based.

I’ am using wargame models in my variants on A&A and A&A Guadalcanal ( it is neat tomove around white zero’ s with the red sun on their wings).
For the moment i’ am working on a big game board (100 x 160 cm).
For the rockets i use metal models of V1’s and adapted AA guns with small rockets attached. Often we use a house rule regarding tech together with special models:

• cheaper R&D
• random element in tech
• advanced units are more expensive ( jets , heavy bombers, …)
• you can produce them only after the tech breaktrough

Greetings
El Stef

The rocket mold must be a V2, because the V1 looks like a fighter with short wings.

(no links, no book recommendations, just trust me on this one)

@El:

Yes , I agree

Much cooler. But V2’ s are hard to find in small scales. And the sets avalaible now and then are very expensive.

No, they are not

INF: 15mm - or  1/87 HO scale
ARM: 1/300
ART: 1/300
FTR&STR: 1/700
NAV: 1/2400

These are the correct AA scales after many thousands of pieces purchased.

Also, the V2 would need to stand up and it wont look right if mono color. You want the V-1 because its more identifiable as a rocket. otherwise it would look like a Saturn V rocket standing up 1 inch.

If you had the V2 on its side it would look like a zeppelin. Remember the level of detail is limited so any ‘torpedo looking’ hunk of plastic is gonna look weird.

I do have another V-1 model which is attached to a ramp. Ill get a pic soon.

Thats not a V2. Its not even close. Id much rather have the V-1 model than that.

Ill take some more pics.

Also here are some good infantry molds

http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/PeriodList.aspx?period=1

here some of my favourites, the german mountain troops

I also want nation specific molds for the aussies

I love the guy with the sword

The Aussie’s must have run out of ammunition, judging by the sword wielding commander and the guy about to throw a beat down with the stock of his rifle, while gripping the barrel. Portrays the Mad Max effect very well, you don’t mess with Australia.  :-D

please, we’d bloody beat you with the stock of our rifle to save ammunition  8-)

I think that you mean to say the following:

IPC - 1 or 2 less than a fighter  ( think 8 IPC)
Att - 3
Def - 3 or 2 if attacking fighter is present
Rng - 4

It doesn’t make sense to have altered defense when attacking.

This is an interesting unit, though.

Bardoly

Thanks for correcting my mistake.  You, IL and AG 124 got me thinking about this some more.  This can actually work both ways for Bombers and Fighter-bombers.

For example: If an attacking Bomber or Fighter-Bomber attacks a territory with no Fighters present then it attack with it’s full attack value but if defending Fighters are present then it’s value is reduce by one.  The reason is that we all know when Bombers & Fighter bombers attack with out fighter escorts, defending Fighter are more effective is disrupting the attack by breaking up formations and shooting them down.  Thus reducing the bombers ability to inflict damage.  However, if they are escorted by Fighters then there is no change.  Since defending Fighters are being engaged by attacking Fighters.

On the reverse, if Bombers are attack we know that their defenses are weaker against Fighters.  Thus their defense value is decreased.  But if defending Fighters are present, then it stays the same.

So here is how the rules would look like.

Fighter/Dive-Bombers
Att - 3 or 2 if attacking without fighter escort and defending fighter is present.
Def - 3 or 2 if attacking fighter is present and no defending fighter is present.

This would also apply to Bombers except for the defense stat.  Since a Bomber already defends at one, it can be reduced any further.

Something to think about.

On Medium-Bombers, I’m going to continue to stick to my guns on these.  I feel they have an important role to play.  On the labeling of bombers.  I consider the Heavy Bombers in the R&D role to be Super Bombers (B-29).  So we should have Medium, Heavy & Super Bombers.

THis thread inspiredme to do something about the number and color of the pieces untill someone makes complete high quality replacement pieces.  I want two sets please (maybe three).

I combined my AAE, AAP with AA50 pieces and I am in the process of painting the Chinese (dark emerald), Italien (light grey), Japanese (bright red) and Soviet (burgundy).

The other nations have the pieces of close enough colors to leave as is.