Table Tactics

DFWSupertrooper,

Obviously with my Color mapboard being 4’ x 9’ and in two pieces I had planned for my “Gaming Table” to also be in TWO PIECES that could be combined,…or FOLDABLE for transport purposes.

@Tall:

My “A&A Gang” currently are using our 48" x 108" Black & White map mounted on gator-board and laid onto the tops of two tables.

On my version I planned on having a solid 1/2" A/C plywood base that has 1" x 2" lateral and longitudinal wood braces underneath w/furniture grade wood framing around everything and a glass top over the map.  On the bottom I planned to include mounts for detatchable legs to make it versatile.  These are my interests and I’d be interested in your opinions or options for building this for me.  Thanks for your time.

I just wanted to let you know I’d possibly be interested in a two-piece board that could be folded up for transport purposes.  Obviously the glass on top of each mapboard would also be in two pieces.  Let me know of any ideas/opinions you may have on this subject.

“Tall Paul”

now all it needs are your pieces

@Variable:

Thanks much! I may attempt this project over the summer. Hopefully I end up with a great table and 10 fingers when I"m done…  :mrgreen:

I would make you one, but shipping and handling would cost a fortune. If you don’t have a free table to use, try double stacking milk creates and resting the pieces on them.

I am needing more Half Tracks, Destroyers and Cruisers.

You get more of these buying AAE/ AAP40. Would you not want them more for the better quality?

Here is a tactical level WWI game I have been working on.  I play it on the original maps from the A&A Miniatures game (2" hexes) and use the roads as trench lines or mark my laminated maps with a dry erase marker to indicate trench lines.  I have only been playing offense/defense type games where the ratio of offense army points to defense army points is 3:2 and the offense has to capture an objective behind the defense’s trench line or has to open a 3 adjacent hex gap in the defense’s trench line after 10-15 turns.  A 100-120 points for the offense makes for a reasonable sized army.
I bought soft plastic English, French and German HO scale WWI soldiers from the Toy Soldier Company and use cannons from Risk and Micro Machines biplanes.  I also bought machine gun/artillery hard plastic sets from the Toy Soldier Co for the heavy artillery & machine guns that were so devastating in the trench warfare.  I suppose you could use pieces from the A&A Miniatures for the infantry, machine guns, artillery, etc., if you want to try this before investing in the WWI pieces which are about $8/set.
I have play-tested this game several times and revised the rules at least 6 times.  If you give it a try I would appreciate your feeback so that I can continue to improve the game.
Let me know if you can’t open the MS Word rules file.
World War I.doc

Maybe we could make some infantry pieces that would hold those gun pieces.

You know, TT made the landing crafts to be used with the classic MB editions, and in that game it was usually UK that would purchase them, in UK, and use them for the first attack wave on Western Europe, and in next turn US could just re-inforce the newly taken territory with infantry from trannies, so no need for US to buy expensive landing crafts. In the pacific theatere, US would need to occupie Manchuria and build a factory there, and then place landing crafts there for the final attack on Japan, but at that stage most rational players had quit long time ago.

I do remember Jack saying something about a new release for the summer.I emailed concerning V2s in the 3 color reinforcement package.I hope its a go.I have all 5 sets.They are great additions to the game(s).I love the WW1 tanks,modern apcs(they work for most
M113 types),and the 1/2 track.I remember in an old interview of his how disappointed he was with the  ships.They are kinda lame,about like Eagle’s types.