Quick Question about printing global game aids

@shadowhawk

Easier said than done though.

Right off the bat Germany will be consistently making more money than both Britain and the Soviet Union having taken out the rest of Europe and thats before they start attacking the Soviet Union.

Keeping the income advantage really only rests on America since the only change in their income will be losing the Philippines islands, as for everybody else, they can expect their IPC count to plummet with the combined strength of the Germans and Italians.

Also, like I said, taking Rome and Berlin is on the table to accomplish, taking Tokyo however not so much since A) it’s on an island B) It’s gonna have lot’s of dudes on it and C) the Pacific is too big to build any assortment of floating bridge and would be too expensive, hence why we would end the game if Japan is limited to their home island plus maybe Korea since they’re pretty much dead in the water so there is no point in playing any further.

Yes, with 24 IPCs you can…

Add one infantry in UK, one in Scotland (makes Sealion hazardous and unlikely). More freedom to scramble on G1.

One infantry in Yunnan (dicey battle for Japan), one in Hunan (somewhat dicey battle) and 3 artilleries in the Russian far East territories (increases the punch of the 18 infantries there).

With bids higher than 24, Egypt can be reinforced further. Then there is the typical sub in 98 that people really like. Well placed land units are very hard to beat.

thx

Thanks, the table is 8’X4’ and the map is 72"X33".

If by “original” Global 1940 you mean 1st edition, the 1st edition Europe and Pacific FAQs should answer your questions.

@vonLettowVorbeck1914:

Is Global domination rules just playing until one side controls all the territories? Any clarification would be appreciated.

In practice, a global domination variant is one where the sides ignore the official victory conditions, which are based on controlling a certain number of victory cities for a turn, and instead play until one side concedes.  You could play until all territories are controlled, but that outcome is usually determined well before the last enemy territory is captured.  Typically, experienced players can decide if a game is worth continuing after one of the major capitals falls.

As some have pointed out, this type of game can be less interesting because the Allies’ economic might encourages them to grind out a longer game until they can pour all their resources into crushing Germany or Japan.

Conversely, it presents a greater challenge for the Axis while also making the Allies less defensive as Cow mentioned.  The problem as I see it is that any game that lasts longer than 10 turns becomes a de facto Allied victory because of the economic imbalance.  Consequently, we’ve been trying to formulate a bid to help even things out, but not break the game in the first 3 turns.  It’s a bit of a round peg/square hole problem, but it’s good to get people talking about it for those of us who cling to the old “global domination” victory rule.

@special:

@Young:

@JimmyHat:

YG, we use a 12 sided dice to track what round it is.  After 12 rounds we add a 6 sided.  After that the game should be over!:)

We do the same, but with all that space in the bottom corners of the board, why not have a little chart that tracks time and gives little reminder notes as to when things are due to happen in the game…. just a thought.

We have that in our group (mainly to check when USA and Russia would enter the war, so it only goes 4 turns)

By the way, for those who don’t have 12-sided dice (and not enough 6-sided ones): use a deck of cards ;)

I just had a brilliant idea, I have a pool table score counter somewhere in a box. You know, the one where you slide the plastic cubes across a steal rod from one end to the other? I’m so gonna put that up in my game room…… awesome.

Several people have said they will make charts and whatnot when the official final set is released.

Thank you Tex for providing what you have made.