I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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Painted playing pieces
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GHQ Hummels in works
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CINC stugs
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Agree with Paul - nice collar work :wink: ! And the colors you used for the German tanks - perfecto! But what I’m really loving are those excellent terrain jobs for your airborne!!! Heyo - just landed behind enemy lines - get some cover!
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Again, nice work, Thanks again. Though I must admit,…seeing all those diferrent models makes me look forward to all of the new HBG and FMG units coming out this year.
Viracocha not only has good insight on things, but I also enjoy his humor, too.
“Tall Paul”
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Eh eh eh - I’m just say’in, they could duck down in some of that brush so the kraut snipers won’t see 'em.
Love the wide variety you have going Chag. I’m assuming some of those are lead/pewter? Those paint up nice, the detail on them is superb… those stugs made me all giddy.
Really looking forward to the FMG Germans…
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Thanks. they are all lead. the HBG and FMG are not worth the shipping cost to uk. which is why i have gone down the mini route. without the international shipping they are a good price and quality.
its good to hear you like the colours as i am colour blind in red and brown. The base is a no brainer vallejo model colour middlestone with some (pale sand)white added. the camo colours are olive green and beige brown straight out of the pot. A highlight is middlestone with a lot more white and drybrushed on.
The bases are pva with sand. a dark base coat with lighter colours drybrushed over it.
the collars are just a single line of valejo pale sand. i dont use white ever but that colour as white. even snow is not true white
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I tried to modify some of the liberty ships to tankers and and a marine troop ship with mixed results. the marine ship looks a bit close to the cruiser i think
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added some picks of my german mechanized divisions except for the half tracks they are all GHQ AND CINC miniatures includeing stugs, hummels, elephants and tigers
here are the anzac ships i have finished
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Man, those painted pieces look great!
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Yep - I’m with Jeff, they look awesome! Must be a pretty impressive sight during your gaming sessions!
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Cheers.
liveing along way away from friends and our one year old has left us with few chances to play that often but we are taking advantage of the royal bank holidays for a two day marathon next weekend. i am playing germany.
it is starting to look good now with all navies painted and most countries done except for infantry. france and china are both not yet done but it gives me incentive to destroy them. -
Know what you’re say’in, anymore I paint the minis far, far more than have a chance to play. Hey… you’re in the Midlands - throw me a PM Chag, where you located? I’m in Londontown but if I ever was in your territory, it’d be nice to squeeze in a game.
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These are the best i’ve seen, even better than mine. The key thing is by nation they have a distinct style so its easy to tell them apart as being German or Russian.
Id like to see some of these HBG sets painted up.
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Chagadiel,
I always enjoy seeing other people’s units they’ve painted,…and these are Excellent! It’s been too long since I’ve spent time speaking with Vira and the rest of you.
The last painted pieces for me were the Major Industrial Centers which I’m sure everyone has already seen. The Minor I.C.'s should be ready before long though.
Again,…nice job!
“Tall Paul”
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the hmg sets are really nice and have been eyeing them up espeacillay the lvts and ships. not as good as the metal ones but far cheaper and unbreakable. I reckon they will paint up really nicely. unfortunatly the cost of shipping makes it easier for me to buy the metal ones at a slow trickle with out much shipping.
@Viracocha i have moved since joining the forum to the fens but its about the same distance unfortunatly i dont get much free time these days with the baby and work. but i will keep it in mind
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Love these, the one in the middle almost looks like the real thing(armored column on the move somewhere by a lake) if you squint just a little.
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Yes, I think my message was sent
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@suprise:
Yes, I think my message was sent
Negative. Message intercepted.
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Freaking BEAUTIFUL WORK!!
I am super envious. Hope mine come CLOSE to looking this good.
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Well, the latest pics I have to share with everyone are the “final” pics of the FMG Italian Rifle Infantry and the Major Industrial Centers. Hope ya’ll like 'em.
“Tall Paul”