Global Gaming Table

Hi, I wanted to share the table I built for my A&A 1940 2nd Edition game board. I also built the model airplanes. The two pictures are my grandfathers in WW2, one was an airplane mechanic stationed in England and the other was a tank commander in the 3rd Armored Division Spearhead. Those are their flags adjacent to their photos.

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@Midnight_Reaper well, i use the 3 pieces of the first image, they serve me well, for that they are.
Now, the system and the mechanics of the game are made for a fast gameplay, and map and combat are more a -ww2 in europe- theme or abstraction, instant of a true 100% historical simulation.
Yes, random dice can by a problem some times, but rock-paper-scissors system can minimice the dice factor. And there are some post-production official optional rules and ideas, i find in the forums, to engance gameplay.
Wen i playtest all options, i can put here, if you want to know, my full opinion on the game.

Hi all,

It has been a while, busy w/ moving, having kids, work. But since a friend of mine was very anxious to play a big wargame, I decided to finish my Axis & Allies G40 set to get it out for a perfect gaming experience. Please do note that I was first and foremost inspired by the customizations of @Young-Grasshopper and @siredblood blood. We play G40 based on the Halifax ruleset option 2 (one UK and ANZAC combined w/ SA & CA) and the Victory Objectives of YG in stead of the G40 Victory Condition.

Since there was no card-set available to have this combination of rules and for the experience of creating something graphical, I made my own. The set consists of Halifax, Global, Europe and Pacific cards marks in some corner w/ their first letter. The first set was from 2015, but now I finished them with a new design loosely based on the rulebooks w/ the beige and see-though pictures in the background. Here’s some examples:
AAG40 Power-E Russia NO1-H.pdf
AAG40 Power-E-P UK-H NO1.pdf
AAG40 Power-E Italy NO1.pdf
AAG40 Power-E Germany NO1-E-G-H.pdf
AAG40 Power-E France NO1-E-G-H.pdf
AAG40 Generic Order of Play - Halifax.pdf
AAG40 Generic Neutrals.pdf AAG40 Back.pdf
AAG40 RD5.pdf
AAG40 Power-P China Namecard.pdf
AAG40 Power-P China Background.pdf
AAG40 Power-H CW NO2-H.pdf
AAG40 Back.pdf
AAG40 Victory Axis VO3-G-H.pdf
AAG40 Victory Axis VC-P.pdf
AAG40 Victory Allies VO5-G-H.pdf

I also made a custom map based on the bare map from YG to replace the UK w/ Commonwealth roundels and some game aids:

Furthermore I upgraded and expanded my components w/ stuff from HBG, IWNGU and spielematerial.de. And a very nice First Aid Box from the Swedish Army to store this and AA14:
IMG_20200428_132457.jpg

Well, hopes this gives you some inspiration to go nuts on upgrades :-). Please let me know what you think, if you want to know something about these upgrades of if you want to have the files for the cards (you can have the editable files or printable files w/ bleeds and cutting lines, as well).

Keep on warring…chrz

I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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@xHavokx said in Help Identifying these game pieces!:

awe that sucks…I was hoping that they were from this game as it actually looks pretty damn fun.
Its also very weird that there not legit because if there not then whatever else game this is, 100% copied pieces from axis and allies then.

Example being the Artillery Piece that’s in the pic compared to axis’s Artillery is identical. Even down to the dice that was in the bag having the American team star with circle sticker on them. Also the “T.” cardboard pieces which I figured were the “territory claimed” pieces. I do realize that a lot of toy/game company’s re-use molds and such. Every other piece looks similar but there’s always something off or different about them. Plus the 2/3 pieces (I have more pieces that I didn’t show) Are similar but have the “peg” type bottom’s like they were to be clicked into a game board…In my hours of searching axis game pieces, It didn’t seem like any had that.

From your profile you seem to have a lot of knowledge about this game but I still hope to get another opinion or someone that knows what they are from still. Thanks though I might just have to chalk it up as a loss.

Ha Those pieces with the “peg” bottom was from a game that Milton Bradley was trying to make like the Battle Ship Game . It was called “AWE HE BLEW UP MY TANK” !!! LOL

@118karate:

Okay so quick question about tables I have both HBG games -939 and 1936 and I’m thinking of building a table that would fit them and fit 1940 global but I don’t know how any ideas appreciated send them my way thanks!

Several customized A&A tables can be seen in this thread:

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=20658.0
Axis and Allies.org Boards > General > Axis & Allies Customizations > Global Gaming Table Threads and Pictures

Yes thats what I’m talking about. Design my own Battle Boards save to file and then get printed. Just need it were its protected from finger print smears and any other stuff.

Thank you YG and DK.