@RisingSun I had similar experience, I was big into the naval miniatures but couldn’t afford both. I bought a lot on ebay a year or so ago and have played a few games. It is not difficult to learn especially if you are familiar with the navy side, it’s pretty similar but includes facing. I think it’s a great game and wish I had collected it some when it was active.
Defender Setup
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I seem to recall there are semi-official rules somewhere for defender-attacker games. Something like the defender get 80 points, the attacker gets 100 points (or 60 defender / 80 attacker) and there are special deployment rules to let the defender start with control of the objective. Is anyone familiar with these?
Mot
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I know I’ve read about these some where, I seem to remember it being 80d vs 120a Defender sets up on the half of the map that contains the objective and the attacker has round 1 initiative. I don’t know where I read it though.
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Mot it’s in the rulebook under the scenarios page.
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It’s not in my rulebook, but I do remember reading that. I think DF is right – attacker gets 120 points, defender gets 80, but the objective is placed by the defender on the DEFENDER’S side of the map. So, basically, the attack has to go GET the objective from the defender. I like! :evil:
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hmmmm. It’s in the original advanced rules. These are the rules that came out before the additional of the airplanes and the air assault phase. That “revised” set of rules does not have it. I keep both sets.
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It’s not in my rulebook, but I do remember reading that. I think DF is right – attacker gets 120 points, defender gets 80, but the objective is placed by the defender on the DEFENDER’S side of the map. So, basically, the attack has to go GET the objective from the defender. I like! :evil:
Anywhere on the Defenders side of the map?
Anyone mind scanning in this section and posting it. I seem to only have the Advanced rulebook.
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page 1
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page 2
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I was just looking at my books tonight, strange how they left that out in the second version.
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Hmmm, that wasn’t nearly as readable as I thought it would have been.
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you’ll need the magnifying glass
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In the wring light I need the magnifyingglass for half of the cards (black ink on dark card) and most of the miniature bases. In particular I can’t read the airplanes from WaS.
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As far as readability - I bough a white paint marker at office depot for $4 and if you gently color the bottom of the base, it leaves raised balck letters against a (sort-of) white background.
Much more readable.
Dont use too much paint or you end upt with white letters on white background, which is just as bad as black letters on a black background….
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As far as readability - I bough a white paint marker at office depot for $4 and if you gently color the bottom of the base, it leaves raised balck letters against a (sort-of) white background.
Much more readable.
Dont use too much paint or you end upt with white letters on white background, which is just as bad as black letters on a black background….
Clever…
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