Just a suggestion, not promoting anything. You could go check out the Historical Board Gaming site, they might have a few things you’re looking for. They pretty much have everything.
Painting Pieces
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Does anyone have suggestions what brand or kind of paint would be the best to paint the A&A pieces and my new airfix pieces I have just got?
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Yes. First wash the pieces in warm water to take off the grease they used from the molding process.
then buy some Krylon paints. They are large sparay paint cans. Get a number ( 6-8) of those flat soda can boxes ( the ones that carry 4 cases)place each color you intend to paint in a seperate box.
hold can no closer than 12 inches and spray left to right, while “fliping” the pieces like a chef flips food in a pan. This will take some practice.
Main thing is not use too much paint… please note that this is the main thing to know… do it in small stages. When you cant flip the pieces anymore then its time to stop.
Let the trays dry… but make sure you shuffle the goods one last time about 8 minutes to avoid it sticking to bottom of box.
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The only things I would add…
There is a specific Kryon paint for plastics (I think it is called “Krylon Fusion” and if you are going to spray paint them, use that.
If you are thinking in terms of detail painting…
1. Coat them above with a FLAT finish paint or primer to get a surface that the detail paints will stick to.
2. Use high grade modelling paints and ultra fine brushes for the detail work
3. When finished, use the clear coat sealant spray that is available in hobby/gaming shops that sell table-top gamin minatures to help protect the paintI used to paint a LOT of 25mm figures for AD&D gaming, and other than the use of a different primer because they were lead, that was the means I used and they turned out well. And 15 years later most of them are still in really good shape (though they do take less ‘abuse’ than your A&A pieces will likely experience, and the metal figures did not have a lot of flex too them like the plastic A&A pieces do (especially Japan INF units).
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different paints between plastics and metal pieces
and then brushes to do detailed work
and then watch out for sticking towards
might be a bit messyand I have to go thru this too as my 2nd axis and allies revised box has a pink UK instead of tan!
damn avalon hill
(they didn’t change the gameboard colours though, no idea what they are doing) -
There is a specific Kryon paint for plastics (I think it is called “Krylon Fusion” and if you are going to spray paint them, use that.
Sorry but i have used that fusion and it sucks… it runs like water and requires way to many applications compared to the following:
Krylon interior-exterior… color example: 1606 pewter grey gloss ( italy)
the other paint is rust-oleum painters touch. color example: 1986 dark grey (germany)
I have painted no fewer than about 25,000 pieces over 2.5 years all in this same manner and i can say it works. The coat is not bubbly and it never flakes. smooth finish.
I had 2 bad experiances with Yellow Krylon fusion. It allmost ruined the pieces… saved by finding and applying the other paint.
Also note the fusion tends to really stick to boxes better to the plactic. you will peel off the paint if you use that.
I used to think that those little spray cans from hobby stores “tamara” et al have dense “dark” colors and they cost like twice what a 12 oz can of the other paint will do.
However they do work well with metal ships and planes…not plastics.
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Someone wrote that I should use a primer. I see the need because the paint seem to crack off quiet easily. What do you usually use for a primer?
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If you use this paint that primer is not necessary except the Japanese guns for the infantry will peel abit over time. MY advice is you forget the primer, but dont forget to wash the plastic in warm water and let dry. If the plastic is soft then you may need primer, but the harder the plastic you should be fine… (like axis and allies plastic)
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you’re right
the infantry piece are soft but all other pieces are really hard -
My 1st revised game set has UK as dull light green.
My 2nd revised game set has UK as dull pink.
So I am gonna paint my UK pieces “Almond”.Krylon Interior-Exterior…
Germany Regal Blue 1901
Japan Pumpkin Orange 2411Russia Leather Brown 2501
UK Almond 1506
US Emerald Green 2016Italy Pewter Gray 1606
Hope I can get them in Australia.
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Yeah, I am looking to get those here in Holland as well…. Think I will use an other brand… Thanks for listing the colors and code BTW.
A few months ago I created a Italian set, and painted them all light grey, and a France set, all sky blue. But I painted some units ( 2nd BB for cruisers) in colors to try and match the revised A&A colors. This was a complete failure. Can’t get the colors right, they don’t match the AA colors. This means I have to paint them all, this is allot of work, but I will get the colors I want, instead of the AA colors.
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Painted the UK pieces today.
Couldn’t get Almond 1506. Got Wovern Tapestry 3537 instead.
It is slightly yellow which makes not as distinction from Japan’s orange. The reason I wanted Almond.Before, two colours for UK
http://img181.imageshack.us/my.php?image=20070117axisalliesbeforll6.jpgAfter, one colour for UK
http://img181.imageshack.us/my.php?image=20070118axisalliesaftersf5.jpgThe colours are not quite right from my camera phone. But you get the idea.
First I tried the “chief” method. But you easily end up over painting the paper under the pieces.
Then the pieces sticks to the paper.
Now I don’t move the pieces. The paper underneath remains dry.
I then flip after its dried and paint again. -
They turned out rather nice! You had ugly colored originals BTW.
You will paint all of your pieces? or keep some in their original color?
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I simply used Testor oil paint for my metal naval units and other plastric part and never had problem.
Alan.
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I only painted UK.
Because they came green and pink.
The other countries are alright. Germany in my 2nd copy of revised got a little darker but not too noticeable. -
When you wash the pieces do just use water or do you use soap?
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dont need either, but if you must dish soap and warm water and let dry before painting.
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yeah I used both warm water and a little bit of dish soap
forgot if I rinsed though… -
I agree washing pieces isn’t 100% necessary, but doesn’t hurt. For detailing, I use Tamiya paints which are pretty durable, quick drying, easy to clean and can take a bit of rattling around in the trays. I added a few decals to some pieces to give them a bit of color (used as special pieces in a rules variant - see attached pic)
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Polywog what and how do these new units perform?
also you got a better picture.
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The infantry are paratroops. They attack at 2 / defend at 3. I opted to not use bombers or air transports to carry them, but rather to assume that transport is available during the combat move from (only) any terrirtory of an ally’s home color. Transport move is 3 spaces & subject to any AA in the defending territory during drop. The units otherwise behave as infantry.
The battleship is Japanese - it’s a normal battleship but attacks and defends at 5. (Yamato/Musashi)
The two German tanks att 4/def 4 and like BB’s take 2 hits to destroy. The US tank att 3/def 4 and has a free non-combat move like the “panzerblitz” NA.
In the rules variant, these units can’t be purchased. They are “issued” to each player depending on rolls determined from “special rules cards”. Sort of like bonus pieces/bonus techs. The cards (attached, but still a work in process) go along with a few additional rules having mostly to do with making techs useful/available/interesting… The idea is to roll 1 die at the start of a turn and do that number on the card and lower for that turn. For the first 3 turns, slots 1, 2 and 3 are “automatic”. I’d appreciate any feedback on the cards or the concept.
Unfortunately, I have a better pic of the pieces, but is waaaay over the 128 k attachment limit.
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