John Brown's Painted G1940 Set - by Spitfire38

Here’s another pic in dimmer light, which is a better comparison to the before picture above.

The silver pops nicely. Before, in the same lighting situation, I couldn’t see most of the border lines at all.

I used the Edding 5300 silver acrylic paint marker with a 1-2 mm tip
The silver seems to really catch what little light there is in the room.

As the paint the marker ran low of paint it was harder and harder to control, so I reccomend just stopping and using a fresh paint marker if this happens. A few of the last lines I did are fatter than I would like because of this.
But the overal result is a huge improvement.

IMG_20230304_154631.jpg

@brpiusosb

We order from GBS enterprises. They have mattress protectors in all sizes., and they are water proof.

Any good mattress protectors should be water proof, and I’m sure there are other companies that sell them.

We quit using mattress pads, because it takes the feel away from a new mattress, because of the padding in them.

@Windrunner21
I forgot about Micro Mark.
All kinds of supplies and tools there.

Cheers

@winteradler said in WinterAdler's Customization - G40 Setup Card Deck & more:

Hey everyone!

I am currently working on a game document.
The aim is to provide a better game overview and more comfort.
By means of national markers it is possible to mark out the grayed out symbols.

I would like to have a list of units,
Enter the ipc, bring in diplomacy and the victory cities.
Unfortunately, I have not found a solution for it, so the game underlay is not too big …

In 2012 “Minor Threat” aka “Children” created a nice design: https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/topic/16491/minor-threat-s-alpha-3-9-global-1940-complete-setup-charts?page=1

Just saw your ideas… I think his work is awesome!

I like your idea with cards for each land. Maybe I will use them and change design etc… Thanks for sharing your work!!!

i just started painting mine.  Use spray paint.  Use Krylon grey or white primer.  After it primed spray it with the color you want as the base gray, green, earth, etc.  Then add the finishing touches the cockpit, nose, tail colors, etc.  The spray paint gives you a nice even coat.  Go light and fast over the piece about 6 inches away .  if you go slow you’ll put on to much paint.  no good you lose detail.  If you really want a sharp looking piece add decals.

look at some of my pieces on combat miniatures face book site.

Jeff Cam.

I have seen lots of people here use acrylics and I have on occasion. Most of my paints are enamels though. I find that is stays wet longer (which is a good thing) and doesn’t clump up nearly as much on your brush. I also use enamels in my airbrush. I find that enamels are actually much easier to clean than acrylics. While acrylics are water soluble, they don’t just dissolve, especially if already dry. It involves a great deal of scrubbing and scraping. With enamels, all you need is some mineral spirits cleaner and it takes the paint right off with very little effort. Cleaning acrylic paint out of my airbrush was hell the first time I did it… never using acrylics in there again. In terms of the finish, I can only assume that enamels hold up better to bumps and scrapes than acrylic paint does.

Someone once asked if enamels, by default, have a glossy finish to them. They do not, as long as you are using flat enamels, which seem to be the standard. I use flats and they have an excellent, non-shiny finish. I feel like enamel colors are a little deeper too, on the whole, but I suppose it depends on the brand of acrylic you use. Vallejo seems to be a popular choice for acrylics. I use predominantly Model Masters (Testors) enamels. In general, I would just said to find a brand you like to work with and produces the results you like. Don’t buy super cheap paint… you will get the results you pay for.

Good luck!

The next group of infantry, will be, DESERT LIGHT INFANTYRY.

Until next time.

Cheers!

John