Thank you for sending the map to my printer. I have been testing scenarios out with my A&A using my 1942 second edition. I just have been using sticky note paper to mark my Italian territories. I used the game pieces from my anniversary addition for the Italian pieces. I also added have tracks: cost is IPC 5. Attack 2, defend 2 as tanks cost 6 IPC in this version. Its nice to spend 5 IPC on an actual unit other than an AA gun. No artillery bonus on half track in this version
I also added the recruitment center from zombies.
Please see the chart below
MOBILIZATION ZONE
UNIT STATS COST MOVE ATTACK DEFENSE
LAND UNITS
INFANTRY 3 1 1 2
ARTILLERY 4 1 2 2
HALF TRACK 5 2 2 2
TANK 6 2 3 3
ANTIAIRCRAFT ARTILLERY 5 1 0 1
RECRUITMENT CENTER 10 0 0 0
INDUSTRIAL COMPLEX 15 0 0 0
Ambilzi & Grasshopper's 1940 Global Map (Video Added)
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YG,
––Good Luck!
“Tall Paul”
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@Young:
Styrene didn’t turn out well… I’m gonna now print it on vynal with magnet.
More details of this overall adventure when I’m done.
Oh no! That’s really unfortunate. This must be getting costly! Oh, the price of perfection. hehe.
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@Young:
Styrene didn’t turn out well… I’m gonna now print it on vynal with magnet.
More details of this overall adventure when I’m done.
Oh no!� � That’s really unfortunate.� � This must be getting costly!� � Oh, the price of perfection.� � hehe.
Thanks TP and IWNGU,
I got my money back for the first print with the bad colour (+$140)
…but I ate it on the one with all the air bubble reactions to the adhesive (-$140)The styrene print (-$220) came out flawed with blury text which allowed me to return it (+$220)… good because the surface was grainy, attracted finger prints like crazy, and the ink showed up on the cloth when I tried to wipe it.
Last idea is to print it on a large piece of magnetic vinyl like advertising on car doors. It will print well, stay flat with a piece of sheet metal screwed to the table under it, and easy to clean with a lysol wipe… the only problem (that I’m willing to live with) is the glossy shine… I was quoted $275, which I will apply my $220 credit to.
It’s more the time spent that’s troubling rather than the money … but it’s the money too. If this next idea works, my table will be more pimping than I ever bargined for. The good news is… there’s nothing wrong with the file, it looks gorgeous. I have the blurry styrene piece which I will be using for our game this Friday before I return it next week.
PS: My print guy is awesome… Kinkos price for the same styrene job was $360
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YG,
––You definitely have my empathy as well as good wishes. It sounds like you might finally be where you wanted to be in this scenario.
----The experience that I endured was much shorter,…but expensive. I got EXACTLY what I wanted the 1st time,…and I was very impressed at how professional it appeared,…but it cost $620. It sounds like you might have found something equally good-looking without the financial “boom”. I’m looking forward to seeing your results.
----I’m glad your print file looks gorgeous and will more than likely will ask to use it when I have my newer, larger map made. I hope that we might meet one day and play a few games with/against each other. Good Luck.“Tall Paul”
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Thank TP, I would like that.
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Young Grasshopper,
This is amazing! Great work! I have 4’x8’ of sheet metal on my office wall where I have a 6’x3’ 1942 map up (laminated, pieces magnetized) for vertical game play. Would love to have a Global Version up on the wall as well. Quick question - do you have this in photoshop where you can still remove the layers of the charts you added? I would love to print a copy with just the map and I can separately print the charts and have them off to the side on my wall. I like the “prettiness” of having just the map on the wall and the IPC chart along the bottom is the only chart I would keep. I can “delete” them myself in photoshop but it’d be nice to have the original water textures / zone lines.
Let me know and thank you for sharing this file! Wonderful.
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Ambilzi may have the bare striped down file or layered version. You can try and contact him for it but he his very busy and may not answer… it’s worth a try.
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Got my $140 back from the first crappy print… on my way now. Just waiting for a piece of sheet metal to come in (got it from work at a great discount, but I’ve gotta wait a couple of weeks for it). after that… I will pick up the printed magnet sheet.
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Picking up my 72"X33" magnet map this week… fingers are crossed.
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YG,
@Young:
Picking up my 72"X33" magnet map this week… fingers are crossed.
––I’m pulling for ya,…and if needed, I’ll call in an airstrike,…just let me know. :-D
“Tall Paul”
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@Tall:
YG,
@Young:
Picking up my 72"X33" magnet map this week… fingers are crossed.
––I’m pulling for ya,…and if needed, I’ll call in an airstrike,…just let me know. :-D
“Tall Paul”
Thanks TP,
I just hope I don’t get hit by any friendly fire… lol.
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I have 4’x8’ of sheet metal on my office wall where I have a 6’x3’ 1942 map up (laminated, pieces magnetized) for vertical game play. Would love to have a Global Version up on the wall as well. Quick question - do you have this in photoshop where you can still remove the layers of the charts you added? I would love to print a copy with just the map and I can separately print the charts and have them off to the side on my wall. I like the “prettiness” of having just the map on the wall and the IPC chart along the bottom is the only chart I would keep. I can “delete” them myself in photoshop but it’d be nice to have the original water textures / zone lines.
you got pictures of that? I’ve been thinking about putting the game on the wall at some point in the future for quiet a time and would love to see how people have it done
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YG,
@Young:
Picking up my 72"X33" magnet map this week… fingers are crossed.
––Have you picked up your magnetized plastic game map yet???
“Tall Paul”
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My printer guy had problems again… he had to out source it and even though I told him that I would be patient, I think its time to crank up the pressure on him.
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So the magnet sheet print didn’t happen as my printer guy gave up on the challenge after some complications. He instead went back to the styrene sheet idea with some advise from his industry pals, which was basically to print on a thicker piece and a different type of styrene. I picked it up tonight and was much happier with it compared with the last attempt. First thing I noticed was how much thicker it was from the first print that I returned, and I didn’t get any of the same problems with the ink smudging and blurred lines. What I got was a beautiful print on thick styrene that I can wipe down with a wet cloth. It took a long time and cost more than I wanted to spend, but I’ve got my print, and I’ve completed my table… stay tuned for a you tube video tour of my new table and game room coming very shortly. Cheers.
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YG,
––I’m glad you’ve ended up with something your happy with. I’ll look forward to the youtube link.
“Tall Paul”
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@Tall:
YG,
––I’m glad you’ve ended up with something your happy with. I’ll look forward to the youtube link.
“Tall Paul”
Thanks TP,
I do like it a lot, however, there seems to be some kind of holograph effect that has brought down the clearity by a notch. It’s been hard to say if I like it or not, but if I don’t… it’s hardly worth mentioning.
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YG,
––Just tell everyone it’s the ghosts of all of your enemie’s dead soldiers. Then it will be something SPECIAL!
“Tall Paul”
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YG why not use matte vinyl ?
I have printed several of ILs maps and the HBG39 board (All HUGE) on matte vinyl without a single problem like you are experiencing.
It is sturdy (heavy duty) material that is also waterproof.Anyway is the file in the OP the right one to try and print?
I only ask because when i open it with my default picture program I cant zoom in without it turning to crap.Either way i use kinkos. Costs more, but i never get any of the problems you seem to be dealing with.
Im about to print ILs file but i dislike it, doesn’t line up very well, several errors and the oceans are two completely different colors.
I would much prefer yours (though I really do not like the bases, or the battleboard or turn tracker -sorry just big eye sores right smack in the middle of the map to me), but it is still the best out there and im willing to give it a try, as soon as tomorrow if its the right file.
(pm me the right one if not)And il let you know how it turns out on matte vinyl.
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@Uncrustable:
YG why not use matte vinyl ?
I have printed several of ILs maps and the HBG39 board (All HUGE) on matte vinyl without a single problem like you are experiencing.
It is sturdy (heavy duty) material that is also waterproof.I like to glue my maps flush on my custom game table and I was experiencing air pockets with both vinyl and laminate posters.
Anyway is the file in the OP the right one to try and print?
I only ask because when i open it with my default picture program I cant zoom in without it turning to crap.Yes it is the right one to use… when viewing it and then zooming, you will need to give your computer about 30 seconds each zoom for it to read the pixels and present it as clear. The file was meant more for printing rather than viewing.
Either way i use kinkos. Costs more, but i never get any of the problems you seem to be dealing with.
It cost a lot more… my print shop charged me $130 for a laminated poster and $220 for a printed styrene sheet. Kinkos quoted me $300 and $500 respectfully.
Im about to print ILs file but i dislike it, doesn’t line up very well, several errors and the oceans are two completely different colors.
I would much prefer yours (though I really do not like the bases, or the battleboard or turn tracker -sorry just big eye sores right smack in the middle of the map to me), but it is still the best out there and im willing to give it a try, as soon as tomorrow if its the right file.
(pm me the right one if not)Ya… I understand that some like our map and some not so much, but I designed it to help beginners at my bunker as well as the experienced players. I get that the battle board and turn tracker are eye sores even though they are placed in unused areas, but the built in bases eliminates 42 crappy cardboard counters from the board, and also saves time on setting up.
And il let you know how it turns out on matte vinyl.
Cheers, I’ve seen them and they look great… you shouldn’t have any problems.