Global Gaming Table

Not printed yet, but I’m intrigued with this map which was originally created by Demaris: (https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/topic/33023/azimuthal-equidistant-g40-map)
I just add more layers to custumize it.
I’m curious if this gives a good playing experience, when it is I may put some overlays in it for more playing fun.

Download; https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qGlOXyLRZ3u1aW7G4wFaux3P8IeZIlkm?usp=drive_link
(GIMP source file also available)

c38809df-b88c-4e79-a761-fa0272a24af8-image.png

@drz

Thanks for the feedback. Most of the rules for the game were crowd sourced from those actually playing an axis and allies style game. The game was never intended to be a historically accurate representation of the American civil war…as are the axis and allies WW2 games. They are themed games. You are welcome to try it out on Steam tabletop simulator if you have it before casting any kind of judgement. It really is a fun game that challenge players. If you want more historically accurate games, you’ll have to look elsewhere.

@hopper1999 I’ve access to both resin and PLA printers, and while resin has a couple of extra steps compared to PLA, I wouldn’t consider it painful. I’ve come to appreciate resin’s ability to show detail even in very small scale. For me its worth the extra steps to clean and cure, for those results. What’s great is there are so many free units available, with some simple editing/converting you can quickly build cool armies.
As for casting, while I haven’t casted any A&A parts yet (still building my unit library), I have casted a lot of 3.75 action figure parts. I’ve gotten best results using a syringe and pressure pot. (I converted a old paint pressure tank). You inject your mold, and then put it under pressure, I’d do around 30psi, to help the resin into the thinner parts of the mold and prevent bubbles. It also helps, when making your mold to put it under pressure as well. I’ve found it helps prevents bubbles in the silicone and between the silicone and the part being cast.
I plan on using casting to duplicate units I already have, that I can’t find stl files for.

I’ve made a deckbuilding game with a friend that’s set during the American Civil War where you play cards from your deck to move different types of army units around the map, but it’s pretty specific to the Civil War – I don’t think it would port well to WW2.

You might try Quartermaster General; it’s a bit lighter than A&A, but it’s a game about making very efficient use of each card in a relatively small deck to win World War 2 by moving armies around a map.

@dazzaman77
Can you email me at trisdin@younggrasshopper.org

This may sound like an improbable source, but another idea would be for you to go to some local dollar stores and look around.  Back when I was making myself a dice tower, I discovered that some dollar store chains sell (among all the miscellaneous stuff they have in stock) some plain unpainted rectangular wooden trays of various sizes, made of very thin wood.  Their designs could not be simpler – a bottom and four sides glued together, all made of flat wooden pieces – and they’re cheap in both price and appearance, but they’re about the right size for what you have in mind and they would probably look quite nice if you applied some dark wood stain to them.  And because they’re so inexpensive, picking up as many as you need for your table would be very affordable.  It would also be easy to customize them by, for example, subdividing the larger models into sections by cutting some balsa wood sticks (or other types of woods) to suitable sizes and gluing them inside the trays before you stain them.

I know HBG has a WWI game that uses a full world map. It is in the development phase, but still worth checking out:

http://www.historicalboardgaming.com/Global-War-1914-Axis-Allies-WW1-Variant-Map_p_728.html

This is a sweeeeeet table. I used a lot of the same ideas in mine.

happy gaming!