Accurate Miniature Equivalents for Custom Painting your 1940 E&P

@Rorschach:

Bee-You-Tee-Full!

One quick question.  How on earth do you get such nice clear close-up shots?  I’ve been unable to get any close-ups that come in clear and crisp on anything this size yet.

Lighting is important - I have table-mounting lights about 8 inches away from whatever I’m photographing. I just use a Canon point-and-shoot and hold the camera an inch or two away from the minis. Having two light sources can help, and make sure that the subject isn’t obscured by shadowing (either from the mini itself or from your hand/camera).

@Most:

Thanks for the new pics. I think the smallest I have is 10/0 but it’s about time for me to replace my brushes so I’ll look into getting a 20/0. The most trouble I have in so far a s time goes is the boots, specifically the sole, A smaller brush would help here. Also, Holy crap that’s a lot of paint! I have been using Testors model paint for mine and then I dip the infantry in minwax lacquer and spray the vehicles with clear enamel. This gives them a shiny appearance but protects them from chips. As I said I’m new to this and I wonder if you could explain what the ink wash is that you spoke of. I apologize if you explained this already but 32 pages is a lot of reading.

Ink washes are diluted pigments that act much in the same way as the minwax - they sink down into crevasses to give the appearance of depth. The nice thing about a wash is that you can use add water/more ink wash to get more/less pigment. Also there is a variety of colored washes available. I use a grey wash on white colors (IE winter schemes), an umber wash on beige/tan/skin (desert schemes), and a black wash on most everything else. Be careful with the black - it can overwhelm other colors. With some of the smaller camouflages, I hardly use any wash at all, and more or less brush them directly into the corners. Then I quickly come back with a brush filled with water and dilute them around a bit. If you’re covering something wide like a ship or plane, it’s important to cover the entire surface fairly quickly and smoothly. If you try to come back over a wash after it’s dried, it can peel away as opposed to blend with the new coat. I use the Vallejo line of washes.

Also - yes, doing a coat or two of a varnish is very important to protect the miniature. I use a matte sheen.

@cminke:

i found a way you coud make money all cly. make a download able book/guide for painting minis(including axis and allies board game minis) the downlaod would cost any where from 5$-15$ i know alot of people would buy it (one beeing me!)

I might look into that… My only worry is in not knowing what copyright issues would arrise (it’s a different ballpark when selling something comes into effect). Does anybody have any legal advice on the matter?

@Most:

Thanks I’ll look into the inkwash. The Italians look great by the way however I notice from your brush shots that you do the roundels after the rest of the soldiers uniform. I prefer to do the roundels first which is why the boots are so tedious for me, however I think that finessing the boot paint around the roundels, for me anyway, is easier. Although sometimes this causes me to drag paint onto the flags but I think it is easier than painting the flag around the already painted boot. Just personal preference I suppose. You must have tried both ways why did you decide to do it this way?

Actually I start doing it this way because painting the roundels was sort of a last minute idea.  But despite that, I’ve found that painting it last helps for several reasons:

a) I am almost always holding the miniature by the base while painting. Either from sweat or friction, usually some of my primer peels off from the base’s sides. This could be a problem if that’s the first thing you paint.

b) Sometimes ink (or if you’re extra sloppy; paint) can drip down onto the roundel and stain the color. Occasionally I do save the inking for after the roundel, but I always hold the mini upside-down to change its flow.

c) For the most part, the roundel is the most difficult part to paint. It’s much easier to go back and touch up the soldier than it is the flag of the roundel. Like you, I almost always come back and touch up the boots afterward. Sure it seems like an extra step, but it’s a much easier extra step than reworking a roundel.

@cminke:

how long does your paint take to dry? Avrage

1-2 min.

@Most:

@allworkandnoclay:

a) I am almost always holding the miniature by the base while painting. Either from sweat or friction, usually some of my primer peels off from the base’s sides. This could be a problem if that’s the first thing you paint.

I’m surprised to hear that you hold the figure. You’ve been doing this for a long time so I feel weird making a suggestion to a pro but what I do is use blue sticky tack and dollar store nails under the base so I can hold the nail without touching the figure. After painting a color I stick them in one of those Styrofoam planter things. Have you tried this method? I find it makes dipping them in the varnish easier as well. I will try to get hold of a camera and take some pics this week, mine’s pooched. If I do would you mind if I put the pics on this thread or would you rather I started my own? This one’s pretty long as it is lol.

I’ve actually tried that method before… I just feel I have more control over the mini by holding it. But sure, you can post some pics about it if you like.

TO EVERYONE

I’m saving up money for my trip to Peru and find myself coming up a bit short. If anyone who like to make an offer for any of my custom pieces, please send me an email at: chad@allworkandnoclay.com

@Most:

Cool, thanks, you are an inspiration to all of us and your work is the best I’ve seen anywhere. One thing I also wanted to ask, do you paint an entire figure at once or one color at a time? With the paints I use I find, especially with the black and white, they dry up too much when open for too long and I can only get through half a jar before it is too thick from evaporation. I ask because I see you use a palette where I use the model paints and dip right in the jar.

I paint one color at a time. Try filling an empty paint container (one with a dropper head) with water and wet your paint every once in a while. Also you can look into ‘wet pallets’.

Hey everyone - it’s been a while since my last update I know, but I’ve actually been filling custom orders for painted miniatures. I have a price list finalized for all my pieces. If anyone is interested, I would love to have as much work as possible before I leave for my trip Jan 3rd. They make great gifts! I can also do custom work - just send me a picture from historical/illustration sites and I’ll work my magic. My rates are very reasonable for the results. No job is too large/small, although I am under the time restriction of the 3rd. Consider your order a donation to the ‘Keep Chad Coffman Fed In Peru’ fund.

I started a Flickr account where you can see my full set pic by pic:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/allworkandnoclay/sets/

Please contact me at chad@allworkandnoclay.com for more info.

Thanks again for the support everyone! I’ll be sure to donate to A&A.org once I get back from my trip (money is crunched right now).