Industrial Complex, Naval Base, and Air Base 3D Printed Game Pieces

Because so many of the ship types are too similar (to my admittedly weak eyesight, at least), I have decided to use some poker chips of various colors as bases for these ships. These poker chips are the same exact size and type as the white/grey, red, and green ones already included in the game.

Since we need to be able to tip the capital ships (battleships and aircraft carriers) onto their sides (to indicate when they are damaged), I don’t need to uses poker chip bases for them. That leaves the other four classes (cruisers; destroyers; subs; transports). Since I did not want for these chips to use any color that is already used by the game pieces (wither as chips or as units), that left me with purple, orange, yellow, and pink as my options.

So, I’ll be using purple for cruisers, orange for destroyers, yellow for submarines, and pink for transports.

Here is an image of the work in progress: my cruisers on purple poker-chip bases.

cruisers.jpg

Thanks for tolerating my bragging about my project. ^_^

Franklin

@drz

Thanks for the feedback. Most of the rules for the game were crowd sourced from those actually playing an axis and allies style game. The game was never intended to be a historically accurate representation of the American civil war…as are the axis and allies WW2 games. They are themed games. You are welcome to try it out on Steam tabletop simulator if you have it before casting any kind of judgement. It really is a fun game that challenge players. If you want more historically accurate games, you’ll have to look elsewhere.

HBG Kaga with the Standard of Admiral of IJN on its Deck

kaga 2.jpg
kaga 1.jpg

See this thread…

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=21305.0

…for the picture-posting procedure I copied below.  I don’t know the minimum number of posts needed for the attachment feature to become available, but I think it’s around 10 to 15.

At the bottom of the posting screen, click “Additional Options…”.  Use the “Browse” button next to the Attach window to find in your computer’s file directory the picture you want to load.  Click on “(more attachments)” if you want to load more than one picture.  Maximum attachment size allowed: 256 KB, per post: 3.

I know a producer in Germany, who could deliver a mixture of white dashed and continous lines decals (s. picture). One decal consists of 23 white lines, each of 125 mm length and 0,75mm width, where each decal is EUR 3,50. A direct shipping from the producer to the U.S. would be very expensive, it is about EUR 35,-. If you are interested in, I can order the decals and send it to you personally. This will cause shipping costs of roundabout EUR 10 (depending on the weight…).

The decal is a digital print, that is, you have to cut out the lines. More pleasant would be a screen print, then each line is spearated from the others as a distinct decal in the printing process.

The producer also offers an individual development of decals, but I don’t know how much this is in EUR or $. If you are interested in I will ask.

Web: www.ds-design.de, english and german language

white dashed lines.jpg

Redleg,

First, you have a beautiful family. Second, Your paint jobs look great. I have to really give applause to your freehand markings. It’s true decals are cleaner and sharper but I my self have used none on anything I’ve painted and I’m developing a way to layer and paint my own markings (It’s been holding up my project severely) I simply can’t afford to buy sheets of decals that I might only use a handful of.

One tip That I’ve adopted, is to use ultra-fine Sharpie permanent markers for small lines and details where a brush won’t do or may slop (canopy frames). Lastly I’ve learned from table-top gamers of much larger scale (Warhammer, Bolt Action) models that at the scale Axis & Allies models are you can “mass paint” with fewer details on many units to create large armies, fleets and air forces that will look phenomenal from eye level to table top . Anyway us A&A painters have our work cut out for ourselves. I salute you sir.

Anyway, keep on painting, Nice work.

Thanks LHoffman,

Your appreciation is my inspiration… because I refuse to use a sheet of glass, my research has lead me to a material called styrene (google it) which is a type of plastic sheet that can be directly printed on. All indications point to this method being the last alternative to glass and although it cost around $240, it looks to be my best option. Even after flushing $300 so far in a crappy print, and installation complications, I’m happy with this new direction if it turns out the way I’ve been told it will. Basically it’s flexible plastic, so it should lie flat without air pockets getting trapped, and because it doesn’t get laminated, the colors should be slightly brighter. If it is sensitive to scratching than there is a clear film sheet by 3M I can look into, that’s where I’m at right now.

@HBG wow