[1936] New player quick index project.

@GeneralHandGrenade Thank you very much!

Recently received both the Base set I ordered (Coastal subs + TBDs) as well as the Flight Stands from IWNGU.

Both are great and I highly recommend them both  :-)

@Royal:

See now this is interesting, because I’m playing Germany, and I don’t have nearly enough troops to get through Russia. It’s 1942, and I’m basically trying to hold onto the, what I call, “Leningrad line.” I built a lot of infantry, which in the end caused tons of problems because They simply can’t get to the front line fast enough. Don’t get me wrong, I make about 80 IPP’s, but I don’t have the mechanized power to keep the Russians at bay. What they have done is basically let me have everything, and stacked artillery and Militia in Moscow and Stalingrad, making them unreasonable to even try to attack. I don’t know what to do! America is just about to enter the war and throw roughly 10 transports at my door. Italy is doing well owning all of Africa, but Japan never did well and China and is basically 3 years behind the ballpark. I could start buying strategic bombers, but it seems like carpet bombing is a waste, even with heavy bombers.

That brings me to a question that I would like to have input on for everyone who is reading this Forum (Thanks by the way, I really needed some feedback like this!) Carpet bombing only hits on a 2 or less, which is like hitting on a 1 for a D6, but worse because there’s more sides. (I know statistics are the same but they still never seem to hit!) I was thinking about increasing carpet bombing to a 3 or less, to give them the real firepower they had. I know that they were really good at simply destroying cities, but the only concept that can show that is by destroying factories. What do you guys think? Would it be too strong, or do you think it would be okay?

I don’t think Germany should be able to “go through Russia”. Historically, it wasn’t the case. It is one of many of A&A legacies / fallacies. The Victory Points gives you a hint as to what territories are important to win the game. Germany wins nothing except a few IPPs by conquering Moscow. If the Russian player in your game has stacked Moscow & Stalingrad with slow units, he has lost the game.

Re Carpet bombing, I like the rules as they are (and so does everyone else in my group). Strategic bombers are meant for infrastructure. Historically, ‘carbet bombing’ armies were not effectively used in WW2.

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=38414.0

Has a few ideas I used for this exact issue. I’ve changed a few things since with the chips colours. It was a bit overwhelming at first.

Though over time I’ve started to buy or make some pieces to replace these chips from hbg. Occasionally they are out of stock on some stuff.  Some we used often and others we didn’t bother with. Torpedo boat destroyers for example were not worth it for us we just switched to destroyers for these at setup. For now….

HBG says you can play with global40 oob pieces. But a few items are nice to have extra.

Found it way cheaper to buy some units from hbg. The pieces from Pacific or Europe 40. Some are sold in a complete bag for a nation uk and usa most likely in stock. And spray paint any extra colours you want. Dutch orange, yellow comunist china and spain to augment the special units in the same colours i bought.

If money isn’t an issue I’d say call or email the folks at HBG and get everything you need there. They know their stuff and can assist you with the pieces and options required. Have had lots of communication with them. They are very good at getting back to you and assisting with your orders!

@HBG:

It is says: One side may claim victory when all opposing forces have been eliminated from the
six Spanish peninsula land zones (not including overseas islands and colonies).

Does this mean that nationalists do not have to declare victory if they do not want to or nationalists automatically win as soon as there are no more Republicans regardless of whether they want or not? (there are still Republicans territory)

Good question, and I think a better intepretation of the rule is that the Spanish Civil War ends at this point, there is no �option� to claim as the word �may� seems to indicate.

Example: The Republican intentionally make suicide attack to lose all units before the German attack on Russia and theirs aligning of Nationalists and Republicans. So Spain become Nationalists and they will Align with Germany at the
end of combat phase if the Axis have possession of either London or both Gibraltar and the Suez Canal. One strategy I have seen is the Germans stall the war out so that both sides Align and as soon s they do the Germans whack Gibraltar from Spain.   Certainly viable although later in the game Spain is the first place hit by the US or Britain.

@Veldin:

It is says: One side may claim victory when all opposing forces have been eliminated from the
six Spanish peninsula land zones (not including overseas islands and colonies).

Does this mean that nationalists do not have to declare victory if they do not want to or nationalists automatically win as soon as there are no more Republicans regardless of whether they want or not? (there are still Republicans territory)

Example: The Republican intentionally make suicide attack to lose all units before the German attack on Russia and theirs aligning of Nationalists and Republicans. So Spain become Nationalists and they will Align with Germany at the
end of combat phase if the Axis have possession of either London or both Gibraltar and the Suez Canal.

Thank you.

In case anyone is interested, I’ve also been working on some naval supply rules and like Narvik I settled on a naval movement/combat radius of 2 or 3 sea zones from friendly naval bases. Submarines and transports get a range of 5, since they operated at slower speeds which provided better endurance and range.

To go along with that I also am working on rules for oilers that would extend the range of naval units; right now I’m thinking that each oiler gives an additional 1-2 range. This would allow you to combine one or more oilers and a naval base into a long supply chain to your fleet, like the US and UK did in the Pacific. This also allows for interesting side-rules like German secret raiders who can act as oilers to supply the commerce raiding warships, or submarine oilers (the “Milchcow”).

If a fleet is suddenly rendered out of supply, either due to loss of oilers or naval bases, I say that they are not allowed to initiate combat, must retreat immediately if attacked (not sure yet if I’m happy with this), and must non-combat move towards the nearest friendly naval base on their turn until they are back in supply.

I have not yet been able to test any of these rules to verify they are fair and fun, but it seems like they should generally work.

Most WWII-era ships had a designed range of about 10,000 nmi at 10 to 15 knots (typical cruising speed). Bumping up to combat speed drastically reduced that range, down to about 2,500 nmi. I’ve done lots of calculations and in Global War 1936 each sea zone on the map is about 1000 nmi wide, so reducing the combat radius of ships to 2-3 sea zones from a naval base is actually fairly accurate if you assume a fleet at sea is doing a mix of cruising speed and combat speed and either being supplied by a local oiler at the naval base, or maybe the fleet is running back and forth between port and their assigned sea zone each turn. Then each oiler unit would represent a collection of oilers and supply ships able to carry supplies further out to sea.

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I bought just the map 2 weeks ago… IT IS HUGE!!! i love it…  I have 5 sets of A&A and have been playing since the first version.  I don’t have the set to play global war but I just use all the pieces I have from all my sets I already own.    I have been playing a cold war mod too on the same board.  USSR and china VS USA Nato and UK.  Yes the games take a long time and it can be hard to find people to play but i love it and have a great time playing.  It makes the cardboard things that you get with the standard game look like garbage. Ill never play A&A on any other board…  If you need special units i just use a can of Montana hardcore to spray paint it another color.