Cold War 1980s Europe and Pacific. NATO vs USSR

Iv’e always felt that in the game axis has to win by a certain turn to win. Once you go be on a certain turn then your going into late 45 46 47 etc.
Victory city’s and or points seems to get a quicker out come in our games. If axis don’t have 30 points by end of any turn up to 10 rounds they lose. Now of course this may change based on better players. We usually can see if the axis will get 30 points on turn 10 or not or maybe 11.

Your probably looking at a bit different scenario.
Losing side

Gets some kind of atomic bomb Certain low income receive so much more money from bank based on a LL from another country Certain time ( income ? ) a bunch of inf and or pieces pop up on capital.

But then all players have to agree but the winning side will say we won but losing side got the end win.

Something to that affect ? But then game may drag on.

I used only the out-of-box pieces from the original game. The intent was to retain the flavor of the original while ‘enhancing’ the playing experience as inoffensively as possible. To that end, all pieces were sanded, primed, and painted in a color as close to the original as could be done. There are no mold lines or flash on any of these pieces. Even the chips are original. Enjoy!

*Special shout-out to https://shop.x-raypad.com/ for such beautifully printed maps. Playing AnA on an over-sized mouse pad as opposed to some vinyl provides the superior playing experience.

**Feel free to ask questions here and/or subscribe to my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhtS9kBOK7s&t=1s

***If anyone would like to play Europe '99 edition, DM me. I recommend playing via Twitch or TripleA.

Europe:
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@Midnight_Reaper well, i use the 3 pieces of the first image, they serve me well, for that they are.
Now, the system and the mechanics of the game are made for a fast gameplay, and map and combat are more a -ww2 in europe- theme or abstraction, instant of a true 100% historical simulation.
Yes, random dice can by a problem some times, but rock-paper-scissors system can minimice the dice factor. And there are some post-production official optional rules and ideas, i find in the forums, to engance gameplay.
Wen i playtest all options, i can put here, if you want to know, my full opinion on the game.

Hi all,

It has been a while, busy w/ moving, having kids, work. But since a friend of mine was very anxious to play a big wargame, I decided to finish my Axis & Allies G40 set to get it out for a perfect gaming experience. Please do note that I was first and foremost inspired by the customizations of @Young-Grasshopper and @siredblood blood. We play G40 based on the Halifax ruleset option 2 (one UK and ANZAC combined w/ SA & CA) and the Victory Objectives of YG in stead of the G40 Victory Condition.

Since there was no card-set available to have this combination of rules and for the experience of creating something graphical, I made my own. The set consists of Halifax, Global, Europe and Pacific cards marks in some corner w/ their first letter. The first set was from 2015, but now I finished them with a new design loosely based on the rulebooks w/ the beige and see-though pictures in the background. Here’s some examples:
AAG40 Power-E Russia NO1-H.pdf
AAG40 Power-E-P UK-H NO1.pdf
AAG40 Power-E Italy NO1.pdf
AAG40 Power-E Germany NO1-E-G-H.pdf
AAG40 Power-E France NO1-E-G-H.pdf
AAG40 Generic Order of Play - Halifax.pdf
AAG40 Generic Neutrals.pdf AAG40 Back.pdf
AAG40 RD5.pdf
AAG40 Power-P China Namecard.pdf
AAG40 Power-P China Background.pdf
AAG40 Power-H CW NO2-H.pdf
AAG40 Back.pdf
AAG40 Victory Axis VO3-G-H.pdf
AAG40 Victory Axis VC-P.pdf
AAG40 Victory Allies VO5-G-H.pdf

I also made a custom map based on the bare map from YG to replace the UK w/ Commonwealth roundels and some game aids:

Battleboard: Battleboard R&D v6 - blue.pdf & Battleboard v7 - blue.pdf Reasearch and Development board: Too big to upload Break-out boards: also too big to upload

Furthermore I upgraded and expanded my components w/ stuff from HBG, IWNGU and spielematerial.de. And a very nice First Aid Box from the Swedish Army to store this and AA14:
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Well, hopes this gives you some inspiration to go nuts on upgrades :-). Please let me know what you think, if you want to know something about these upgrades of if you want to have the files for the cards (you can have the editable files or printable files w/ bleeds and cutting lines, as well).

Keep on warring…chrz

@barnee sure! So you’d like some cards similar to these but with the various technologies on them?

Wolfshanze: sounds cool, that would probably be a bit safer when it comes to spilling ect…which is going to be an issue with my table :/

working on the table at work, due to summer holidays i cant continue untill mid august, i’ll post finished pics then…

Fenris

Sounds like a fun project.  The fundamental problem you’d have to solve, however, is the fact that the country names and – even more problematically – the country borders that existed historically in WWI were in some cases quite different from what they were in WWII.If you make them accurate for WWI, you’ll eventually end up in an alternate-history situation in which you’re fighting WWII on a WWI map with WWI powers as players.  It can also be argued that the political extremism of the 1920s and 1930s that eventually led to WWII was a direct result of the way WWI ended (specifically, the Versailles Treaty), and that if you alter the end of WWI then you alter the situation that eventually led to WWII.  That’s fine if working in an alternate-history environment is something you’re comfortable with; you simply have to be aware that you’re dealing with alternate history.

In terms of the map problem, perhaps the only option that would cover all the bases accurately, regardless of the political situation at any given moment, would be to use a simple map that is purely topographical rather than political in its territorial divisions.  A supplementary element could be to add overlays (drawn on large acetate sheets, or something similar) that provide political borders which can be adjusted from decade to decade.

@Albert:

@Spitfire38:

I have looked at I-94’s decals and thought about it… the only ones I have trouble with are the Russian stars. I enjoy hand painting the insignia and I feel like it makes it look more uniform when it’s all paint, but like you said, it would definitely save some time  :lol:

Well you could save some effort there as Moscow ordered upper wing stars to be painted out on the eve of the German invasion……plain green was also changed to green with a black disruptive camo pattern   http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/index.html

I didn’t know that they painted over the top-wing stars. Thanks for sharing! If I were to paint them again, I’d probably leave them on or use decals, just for easy recognition on the game board, but I like knowing what was historically accurate.