If you build an AC or 2 transports on G1, the allies can both buy air and sink you unified navy in sz7 on UK2 and US2. If you really want to mess with the Allies in the Atlantic, you might want to try one of the following strategies (though they do come at a cost):
bid a sub in sz8 and kill the sz2 navy on G1 (you can combine this with a naval purchase on G1 and foregoing Egypt, sending the sz 14 fleet to sz 13, if you have the nerve) Buy something like bomber, fig, 5 inf or bomber, 8 inf and move your navy to sz 7 (add the sub in sz 8 or a possible bid unit for added effect). Because of the extra bomber, the UK will be hard-pressed to unify in sz 8 and hitting 5+ units in sz 7 is not really attractive either.What do you build in R1? - poll with many options…
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I know!!! I’m nuts getting these figures even down in a poll :-P
and I know I don’t have bombers mentioned as well…
as for a fleet? I think not many people build a Russian fleet.I’ve spent as much IPC’s as I possibly could, so I don’t save 3 or more IPC’s!!!
7 inf, save 3 becomes 8 inf!
4 inf, 1 art, 1 arm, save 3 becomes 5 inf, 1 art, 1 arm
3 inf, 3 art, save 3 becomes 4 inf, 3 art -
I used to be Inf all the way, but I’ve realized that Russia really needs to buy some offensive pieces in order push back some early in the game. But its still all ground units, I don’t mess around with an extra fighter or two.
Though I go pretty much full bore KGF with the allies. If I was going to play around more in the pacific I might tend to be more defensive with Russia and go back to all Inf.
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I’m a staunch supporter of 4 inf + 3 art. Russia has plenty of inf coming in from the east on the first round, so some cheap offensive pieces nicely go with that so you can trade territories in the future. I’m no fan of buying early tanks with Russia because I don’t use tanks to push on the frontlines against Germany unless they won’t be counterattacked, so they’re bad for trading territories.
Some people swear by going with a fighter as a reuseable offensive piece, you might want to try that.
8 infantry works somewhat but you will not have as great pushing power once you start to go offensive.
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I’m usually inf all the way, better play safe before you know what Germany is up to. That way I can buy tanks or maybe even an extra fighter later, I like the fighters in trading territories with the germans, no risk just a safe game.
I have thought of trying out maybe buying 5 inf 1 rtl 1 arm to have the extra offensive bite earlier, I think it could be a pretty good buy if you manage to destroy the German infantry close to Russia. The Germans takes a few turns moving their infantry to the fronts in Russia so the extra offensive could mean a few extra ipc to buy more inf, but I haven’t really tried it out much, I play safe with the big 8Regards,
-Daniel -
i like the 5-1-1 if my allies are experienced othewise i go infx8. i also like to pick up a fighter but have a strict policy that i don’t do it unles i got 30+ bucks on hand. i tend to do tank/inf ($26=1+7, $28=2+6) but i have decided that i am going to invest more in artillery next time we play, no one in our group really buys them and we only have two people (out of 9) who played classic at all so it can’t be “old fashioned” thinking. so, win or lose i am determined to put a bunch of arties on the board next revised i play
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3 & 3.
Consolidate pre-existing INF, use the ARM to punch holes.
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@ncscswitch:
3 & 3.
Consolidate pre-existing INF, use the ARM to punch holes.
ha! that worked about as well as building 3 transports. :wink:
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I like to build 3 art and 4 inf. I mean you only lose 2 points of defending value versus 8 infantry but you gain 5 points of attacking value.
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I agree with Switch. 3 Inf 3 Arm allows counter attack potential into either Karelia or Ukraine on R2. My usual stack at the end of R1 in W Russia is 5 Inf/Art/2 Arm, so the extra 3 Armor makes a huge difference.
Sometimes the appearance of having teeth matters as much as your actual willingness to commit them to battle.
After that purchase you settle into a more typical Russian purchase every round of mostly Inf and the occasional Art or Arm. The extra Armor early also gives you great flexibility in dealing with the Japanese.
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I picked other,
Save the IPC’s for a rainy day 8-)
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can some of you analyze this poll?
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Most folks go defensive (INF), but of that group a majority choose to add at least a few offesnive units to the mix.
A minority go offesnive (3 INF or less)
And a few go variant offense/defense (figther build)
Not a cut and dried analysis since for each ART bought, 1 INF could also be counted as an offensive purchase… And ARM and FIGs are also great defensive units (you just get far fewer of them)
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thx ncscswitch!
so, nothing new, then :-P
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8 INF, hold the line
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no offense switch but you kind of contradict yourselves in these posts, in the russian tactics post I mention that my r1 purchase is usually 3x3 but you told me in that post it was “sub-optimal” so which is it, the best first russian move? or not?
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If you are attacking Ukraine on R1, then 3x3 is sub optimal.
If you attack Bel and WR, then you can do the ARM. But it also means pulling out of the East pretty fast to replace the INF you did not buy.
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Switch- I’ll reexamine my 3 Inf/ 3 Arm purchase combined with a Ukraine strike. Perhaps 2/2/2 would be better, but I don’t think I could fall all the way to 5/1/1. (and 8 Inf absolutely doesn’t work with a Ukraine attack). I like the ability to threaten Karelia if Germany goes to the north in force. Armor is needed for that.
Keep in mind that I only bring 2 Armor to the Ukraine. Some people bring 3. I take 2 to W Russia. The downside is that there are less pieces that Germany has to account for in the Ukraine with my method, but it does save an Armor.
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With a Bel attack, you save ALL of your armor…
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i am with switch. better to hold those ARM for mobile defense.
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Or for the Counter-offensive when Germany commots too far in one direction… to throw Japan back to the coast if he charges in too fast…