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Im not talking about a digital Map, but a real one. I consider myself very artistically minded so I think I could do it without it looking too bad. What materials would I need, how much time would it take? I wanna do a global map from about 1920.

Sorry only just saw this

So step one would be finding the right image editing program for what you’re trying to achieve. TripleA uses raster graphics images (basically png) and is not suitable for printing. Upscaling the largest relief I’ve made in tripleA and trying to print it at 600 dpi the filesize gets quite beefy. Basically an image that’s like 50mb for use in tripleA is going to climb way up by orders of magnitude into the many gigabytes. It will also tax the RAM pretty hard if you’re trying to edit an image that large (in actual dimensions) like trying to use multiple layers at once. I have a pretty high end gaming laptop and I topped out around 8000p before GIMP started giving me headaches and slowing to a crawl.

What you probably want is an image that you can manipulate as SVG rather than PNG. A vector so you can upscale the image to any dimensions that way (basically the same way font works.) I would try Inkscape or Adobe, and try to get a pull of the image as a vector graphic.

You can start the same as you would in tripleA by creating a baseline image of the basic world map, the continent contours or world warp you want and the territory or sea zone divisions, showing just the basic borderlines in 100% black at 1px width at the desired dimensions for the digital thing.

A physical print would be much larger, so imagine that on your screen you got 72p per inch, on paper that needs to be 600 dpi. You can go lower say 300 dots per inch if it’s very graphic, but a photo quality print is basically like 600p, which is pretty hefty. In a program like inkscape or illustrator etc you can translate a raster image into something that works for stuff like signage, you know, so like making a giant banner image to put on the side of a truck or hang outside a building - same sorta deal here for the scale of the image you’d want to make. Probably the size of a 6 or 8 foot banquet table, possibly larger depending, on what you’re trying to pull off.

If you have the map drawn out at scale, you can scan in sections at A3 or A4 size with a flat scanner and then reassemble the image, to pull it at the highest resolution you can before bringing that image into inkscape to create a vector of it.

ps. here are some youtube tutorial videos on inkscape just to see what sort of stuff I mean. You can probably find more just pulling at those threads. Once you have a map design you can put in tripleA to playtest it by creating a baseline from your svg, exporting the image as a bitmap or png where the borderlines are just solid black ideally at 1px width for those lines, or as close as you can get. For a map image something that’s like 2000-4000p tall and about twice as wide or larger works well for digital sculpts which are png images at 48-54px tall up to 125% currently in tripleA. The map size in tripleA is sorta limited by the unit graphics sizes and the windows in the UI. In inkscape you can make it larger, like for whatever makes sense to have the print look decent. Anyhow, just a quick example you can skip around to see

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Ns028ihACs&list=PL_NagE_y_IhIBNAzw3nFBiF01OKnaltmJ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnqtnSTe6qM

https://youtu.be/kS2nrXuR128?t=2611

for tripleA you can use GIMP to make the relief images in png. Here’s an example of similar videos in that program

https://youtu.be/HLmOpEETjEo?t=646

Hi.
Thanks to the collaboration of Piloto P-51’s youtube chanel, and the tests we have done on our part; We believe we have determined that Pieces and how many are used to play optimally 1941, and incidentally make it work as was intended: an introductory “cheap” game.
You know, There are problems of design and edition of the product, which are a shame: 1 the error on the map, 2 a manual that spends many pages with spaces and drawings, useless, and does not develop a full turn of a power (Germany or Japan, they can do in their hole turn all steps and combat movements) 3 a box that should be much more compact, 4 lack of player aids, 5 lack of pieces.
We have uploaded in another post, the help to players we have created. And now here, we put the pieces that should have come from the factory day first… but that we must acquire, copy, improvise or create, to have an ideal gaming experience.

Listas.jpg

This table is the result of several conscientious play test and an average of the data, we hope it serves to you.

Nota: Video en español, critica y soluciones.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxFgBPiiDQY

Thanks for the advice!  I will try a different primer.

Cheers!

I have glued together 6 chips to make the stack, primed + painted, then added turf/grass on top, and last the painted piece. I didn’t want to use something that could be confused with units in the game, so i chose some random colors…

The nations roundel is fairly quick to paint, and once you get the technique right (holding brush + type of brush) its easy. My global units set is just over 1600 pieces, all have nations markers :)

The large piece where you place all your units is made of a wooden disc, with speck/filler + turf/grass + some “realistic water” (transparent acrylic medium, basically paint with no color/pigment)

Fenris

@georgemak1:

I ended up buying the global set leaders, I already painted them. The detail on the sculps isnt anything extraordinary, but they look nice, and you can use them in the game as leaders. The only bad thing they all came in a zip bag, and it was really hard to tell which sculp for each country. I think the naval leaders are all the same sculp.

Thanks for sharing the photos! Yes, there was an initial problem with the global set naval leaders sculpts; there were supposed to be three different sculpts (dress whites, dress blues, and Japanese admirals) but instead only two made it into the set (dress whites and Japanese admirals). I fixed that about three or four weeks ago as soon as I discovered the problem, so any future sales will receive the proper set. I’m sorry for the mix-up on your order! And yes, I agree it is hard to tell the pieces apart when they are received from Shapeways. I’ve thought about putting some sort of nation or unit identifier on the bottom of the base, but am waiting to see if sales or interest picks up on them before I spend any more time or money on them; thus far sales to anyone not named EBard have been very underwhelming, which doesn’t entirely surprise me given Shapeways costs and the need to paint the pieces.

EBard

The next group of infantry, will be, DESERT LIGHT INFANTYRY.

Until next time.

Cheers!

John

Really pretty. Like them.