Global Gaming Table

Asking the community here which map version would be preferred from below, or there a combination not represented? The game is European theatre, but there is an Asian/Pacific half as well. Game will be offered through HBG.

Historical flags only on capitals or important cities. Territories outside of homeland use lighter shade of colour.
59ba889b-c1fa-496f-8e4c-a86a8c5b1bc4-image.png

Historical flags on capitals and small flags on territories to denote ownership along with colour. Territories outside of the homeland will use local flag.
4efd671c-9f95-454f-813a-ea2451814a57-image.png

Axis & Allies roundels used instead of historical flags. Territories outside of homeland still use local flags.
cfd708c4-c553-41be-9f7a-3d771ba2a601-image.png

Axis & Allies flags used for all spaces. Outside homeland is a lighter shade.
235eb1f3-3d3e-4a50-bde7-8d8a9c46bc50-image.png

Hello everyone! I made a thread where people can put in plugs, adds, etc. for A&A games you guys have developed, are developing, think need attention, or are just cool. I’ll get the ball rolling by plugging my own.

We’ve all slapped a bunch of American and Soviet control markers on the board and called it the Cold War. Some of us have even developed alternative setups for existing a&a games so that it fits the Cold War. However, no one, to my knowledge, has developed a completely new game of A&A specifically for the Cold War, until now. The game @GEN-MANSTEIN, @MonsieurMurdoch, and I are developing does just that. We have four different powers to choose from, event cards to make stay fresh no matter how many times you play it, national advantages and other optional and additional rules to spice the game up for even the most veteran players, a tech tree to put most MMO’s to shame, polar regions for people to pointlessly obsess over, and best of all, plenty of nuclear weapons. Were even working with Historical Boardgaming! However, we are always looking for more playtesters and help in general. If your interested please DM me!

Also check out the Chinese Civil War thread. It’s got a ton of great stuff! See @MonsieurMurdoch for more information.

Hi all,

It has been a while, busy w/ moving, having kids, work. But since a friend of mine was very anxious to play a big wargame, I decided to finish my Axis & Allies G40 set to get it out for a perfect gaming experience. Please do note that I was first and foremost inspired by the customizations of @Young-Grasshopper and @siredblood blood. We play G40 based on the Halifax ruleset option 2 (one UK and ANZAC combined w/ SA & CA) and the Victory Objectives of YG in stead of the G40 Victory Condition.

Since there was no card-set available to have this combination of rules and for the experience of creating something graphical, I made my own. The set consists of Halifax, Global, Europe and Pacific cards marks in some corner w/ their first letter. The first set was from 2015, but now I finished them with a new design loosely based on the rulebooks w/ the beige and see-though pictures in the background. Here’s some examples:
AAG40 Power-E Russia NO1-H.pdf
AAG40 Power-E-P UK-H NO1.pdf
AAG40 Power-E Italy NO1.pdf
AAG40 Power-E Germany NO1-E-G-H.pdf
AAG40 Power-E France NO1-E-G-H.pdf
AAG40 Generic Order of Play - Halifax.pdf
AAG40 Generic Neutrals.pdf AAG40 Back.pdf
AAG40 RD5.pdf
AAG40 Power-P China Namecard.pdf
AAG40 Power-P China Background.pdf
AAG40 Power-H CW NO2-H.pdf
AAG40 Back.pdf
AAG40 Victory Axis VO3-G-H.pdf
AAG40 Victory Axis VC-P.pdf
AAG40 Victory Allies VO5-G-H.pdf

I also made a custom map based on the bare map from YG to replace the UK w/ Commonwealth roundels and some game aids:

Battleboard: Battleboard R&D v6 - blue.pdf & Battleboard v7 - blue.pdf Reasearch and Development board: Too big to upload Break-out boards: also too big to upload

Furthermore I upgraded and expanded my components w/ stuff from HBG, IWNGU and spielematerial.de. And a very nice First Aid Box from the Swedish Army to store this and AA14:
IMG_20200428_132457.jpg

Well, hopes this gives you some inspiration to go nuts on upgrades :-). Please let me know what you think, if you want to know something about these upgrades of if you want to have the files for the cards (you can have the editable files or printable files w/ bleeds and cutting lines, as well).

Keep on warring…chrz

I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
CF362D52-269F-4480-8CBB-08139099138F.jpeg A9E12EA1-66EB-4671-86AC-68C62FD30AD5.jpeg 858DE1F2-030A-4D5A-93E4-70A7D1180ADB.jpeg 8F513EE0-DA37-4BA9-880E-4D5EF7BF431F.jpeg F0188165-757B-4CC1-BF67-5045832283C9.jpeg 2E3CD627-0D31-4121-ACF8-682F9F58A40B.jpeg

@John:

Another awesome video, YG.

Cheers JB.

@dazzaman77
Can you email me at trisdin@younggrasshopper.org

You, sir, are an inspiration.

Given time, I think I’ll “sincerely flatter” your works.

@CWO:

@Duri7:

PS: I would love to add a picture but there no option for me to do this. (Attachment Option shows not up. Links & image links are not allowed) :-/

You need approximately 10 posts before you can attach pictures, due to the forum’s anti-spam software.

Thanks for the clarification! So I’m looking forward to join more discussions (insted of just reading them :roll:) to gain the needed number of postings.