Accurate Miniature Equivalents for Custom Painting your 1940 E&P

@cavestone I also use vallejo paints. The key question here is are you brush painting, or using an airbrush, or both?

The Vallejo paints have a “Model Air” line that comes pre-thinned. You can buy a thinning product (from them) to add to the “Model Color” series paints, which are the exact same thing, just more concentrated and thicker.

If you’ve never used an airbrush, its a bit finicky–it requires regular cleaning and a without a good brush and compressor the paint will flow very inconsistently. The process will be very frustrating unless you use the pre-thinned paints because the brush can only blow paint that is within a certain set of thickness parameters that are difficult to achieve, especially if you are trying to mix the air in the brush’s reserve or in small quantities. That’s why having copies of both Model Air and Model Color is fine by me–unlike Warhammer 40K I’m using primarily earthy colors, greens, dunkelgelb and dunkelgrau… other AFV and camoflage colors and so i don’t need a collection of primary or bright colors.

But I recommend it. The airbrush creates a sublime, beautiful layer and slight mix variations can be used to create shadows, grades, etc. Then you go back over with your brush, adding highlights, lines, details. Then, back over again with a drybrushing…then back to the airbrush to blast Flory Wash all over it.

Can’t see your photos, you can’t post photos until you have a certain post count. I wouldn’t use water to thin paints, they are water soluble but the mix and viscosity is all wrong (though water is obv. cheap and easy to clean up)

As for oil-based paints, these require thinner to clean up, they are much more difficult to drybrush with and are not used for airbrushing. The days of the old testors paints is long behind us–even apple barrel paints are easier to work with and cheaper. The early painting methods were much more about glomming thick layers of paint onto lead miniatures and the modern approach with water based paint and a series of different techniques creates much better results.

PLEAASE TELL ME THERE IS A PDF FOR THIS FILE???

What did you get? Where did you get them?
You mean value as in attack & defence?

@Young:

Those look awesome wolf, I would be very interested in getting some of those.

I know you’re in Canada, so not sure how/what your limits are to shopping or ordering online, but here’s a link to the organizers from Home Depot online… if nothing else, you get “the official” name.

I use these for the nation trays
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-7-in-6-Compartment-Small-Parts-Organizer-83039N13/204536852

I use this for the accessories
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-6-in-6-Compartment-Storage-Bin-Small-Parts-Organizer-Clear-and-Black-THD2015-03/301959981

Of course, use them as you will…

As for my flags, I just used Vistaprint and made some small rectangular product labels and you upload your pictures into them… perfect for national bin flags… I made sure to use era-appropriate flags (like the 48-Star American Flag)

https://www.vistaprint.com/marketing-materials/labels-stickers/rectangular-product-labels?couponAutoload=1&GP=04%2F08%2F2018+19%3A55%3A49&GPS=4958753423&GNF=1

@cyanight:

I have no idea when the German set will ship. I think it was supposed to ship in late spring. Once the pre-orders are filled you can buy the set or groups of 5 pieces. I paint all my pieces so I could care less about color.

I checked the site out… German Set 3 is supposed to be out in “April”… so if that’s true, they got a 30 day window coming up.  Pre-Orders are “sold out”, which is worrisome to someone who didn’t get a pre-order in (c’est moi)… so no clue when the set will be available again or individual sculpts can be ordered, but I’d definitely like a lot out of that set. The Deutschland class pocket battleships would be sweet… hopefully they are sized as Cruisers and not as Battleships… and of course the ubiquitous Pz-IV is a must.  Surprised it’s taken all these years to get a Pz-IV.

That is very impressive.

@Young:

Thanks CWO Marc, really appreciate your comments… do you play often? I understand there is a lot of players in Montreal, do you have a game group?

For many years I’ve had too much going on in my life, professionally and otherwise, to have had time to do much of anything other than collecting the A&A games.  And, to be honest, I have too many issues with many of the features of the various A&A games that I’ll probably never play anything other than what I’m hoping to create at some distant point in the future when I do have the time for it, which is a completely personalized version of the Global game that, for all intents and purposes, keeps the sculpts and the map board but throws out the entire rulebook and reconceptualizes the game from scratch.  And it’s not even fully correct to say “keeps the sculpts and the map board” either.  I’ll be expanding the number of nations and the number of unit types by making use of the very large pool of A&A sculpts I’ve acquired over the years, for instance the ones from the early-edition games and the ones from 1941 and 1914.  And as I’ve noted in the thread where I’ve posted pictures of my custom table, one of the first things I did to the Global 1940 map was to rework its “under-the-plexiglass” roundel allocations to better reflect the structure of the world as it existed prior to the invasion of Manchuria in 1931, as a starting point from which I can then modify the map (by placing roundels on top of the plexiglass) to represent any subsequent starting date from 1931 onward.  A related project that I worked on to create the infrastructure for this eventual new game was the Global 1940 map inventory, a copy of which I posted over here last September:

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=36590.0

But at this point I don’t have an actual plan for what this reconceptualization will look like.  Nor am I likely to do so until I have the time to work on this project solidly for months at a time…so this may have to wait until retirement (which isn’t for tomorrow by a long shot) before this idea translates into anything concrete.

Thanks you for the reply! E-mail sent to Chessex - looking forward to getting these.