I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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United States Set from Historical Board Gaming!
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I think that should read “Mt. Nataka”. But at this point, I’m too tired to spell even my own name correctly. haha.
“Tall Paul”
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Actually it was “Climb Mount Niitaka” :-)
-Slainte
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Orizen,
You are ABSOLUTELY CORRECT. I mispelled the name. But I invite you to refer to the the next 14 words I typed.
Orizen, I’m actually thankful you corrected my spelling error because, as the serious student of History that I am, I want the correct info passed on to everyone. Thanks.
And I will again repeat my sincere request thatI hope the “Coach” will release his Pearl Harbor game soon,…or at least give us some updates on it.
Like I Say,……What Do YA’LL Think???
“Tall Paul” -
ya coach!!
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Tall Paul,
Wakarimasu! I was a little fuzzy myself and had to double check to make sure about that second “i” :-D
Do itashimashite.
I also echo your sentiments on the Pearl Harbor game and add a call for Coral Sea and Midway!-Slainte
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“Coach”’
May I request you to make a new thread about your futurePearl Harbor game I don’t know where you are along with it, or how much time you have to devote to it,…but it seems that there would be enough interest in it to warrant a thread of it’s own so we could keep up with any developements. Thanks for listening.
“Tall Paul”
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@Tall:
“Coach”’
May I request you to make a new thread about your futurePearl Harbor game I don’t know where you are along with it, or how much time you have to devote to it,…but it seems that there would be enough interest in it to warrant a thread of it’s own so we could keep up with any developements. Thanks for listening.
“Tall Paul”
I will,
I am very busy this week trying to ready for a 7 day vacation so no orders will go out after Friday morning for the next 8 days.
I need some time off, 80 hour work weeks are taking their toll on me. I will start the Pearl Harbor game thread when I get back.
I will also start the Axis Minor pre-order and give you more information on the next set after the U.S sculpts that I have already posted. The “Neutral” set will be done in 6 colors and will have some totally different pieces than you have seen so far. I will also be posting a poll for the next set. -
“Coach”,
That’s GREAT news “Coach”. About EVERYTHING you mentioned. I sincerely hope you enjoy your vacation and put everything A&A out of your mind for a short while during your vac. It looks like several people are already looking forward to your P.H. game. Have FUN and we’ll hear from you soon.
“Tall Paul”
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coach i admire you<3
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how many pieces in each set?
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i meant how many of each pieces are going to be in the set?
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i meant how many of each pieces are going to be in the set?
(2) of each except (4) P-51 and (4) Airborne
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Wow,
That would be:
2 Mack Trucks
2 CVE Escort Carriers
2 “Nevada” class Battleships
2 M-5 “Stuart” Light Tanks
2 Tank Destroyers
2 M-7 “Priest” Self Propelled Artillery(Mech Art.)
2 C-46 “Commando” Cargo Planes
2 P-40 “Warhawk” Fighters
2 B-25 “Mitchell” Medium Bombers
2 TBF Torpedo Bombers
4 P-51 “Mustang” Fighters
4 “Airborne” InfantryThis is going to be a GREAT set! I’m really looking forward to “Coach” returning from his well deserved vacation and accepting our pre-orders. I’m ready!
“Tall Paul”
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Hmmm. I may have to end up ordering 10 of the US set. I was originally looking at 5 sets, but I will want more M-5s, Mack Trucks and M-7s for sure. Probably more B-25s and P-40s too.
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KNP,
Ordering 10 sets would not only increase your potiential A&A “FUN FACTOR”, but by doing so would help fuel the “Coach’s” snowball for getting additional A&A unit/sets produced. As an A&A gamer myself I respectfully say THANK YOU for your support of these new units and by doing so making all of our A&A gaming more FUN.
Sincerely,
“Tall Paul” -
im looking forward to the fighters. so i think imma end up buying 4-5 sets. as for the m-5s and p-40s i remember a while back he said they would be included for a nationalist chinese set
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im looking forward to the fighters. so i think imma end up buying 4-5 sets. as for the m-5s and p-40s i remember a while back he said they would be included for a nationalist chinese set
That would be cool too. I would kind of like to see a little more variety for Chinese units. Although, if I play Japan, I sure wouldn’t want to see China getting tanks. Still, maybe just to see these units in the Chinese yellow/green color would be cool.
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Hmmm. I may have to end up ordering 10 of the US set. I was originally looking at 5 sets, but I will want more M-5s, Mack Trucks and M-7s for sure. Probably more B-25s and P-40s too.
I paid for the US mold before I left for vacation, it is on it’s way to being made.
It will be a good set. -
“Coach”,
Please let us know when we can pre-order this GREAT set. Man, with the units you’ve included in this set I would be surprised if it wasn’t your most popular set.
“Tall Paul”
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