I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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AA50 3-D Terrain Gaming Table (COMPLETED July 20, 2010)
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Good lord man!
Job well done! -
*JULY 3rd UPDATED PHOTOS *
All I need to do now is put on original control markers and the glass/plexi-glass table top and the table/board is completed. I apologize for the poor quality of the photos but it’s the best I was able to get from the dozens I took sadly. Also, the pictures don’t do it justice if you ask me;
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That is amazing!
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:-o
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Looking at these pictures tonight I’ve noticed a number of things i need to fix. Dang.
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Looking at these pictures tonight I’ve noticed a number of things i need to fix. Dang.
Like what?
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Looking at these pictures tonight I’ve noticed a number of things i need to fix. Dang.
Like what?
Mostly paint/line mistakes. Border in SZ63 that I messed up on. A couple of bodies of water in Eurasia missing. Border between SZ2 and SZ8 missing (from Ireland to GBR mainland). Border at the bottom of SZ7 sticks out.
And of course, I’m still waiting on getting my original control stickers printed out to complete the map… and glass for the top (hard to find in any affordable pricing!)
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I think you called Z61 “63.” That’s the zone that borders Hong Kong
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I think you called Z61 “63.” That’s the zone that borders Hong Kong
:-o You’re right. Another fix. lol
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Also I think Japan SZ is SZ 60 not 62.
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BY FAR…. the nicest board I have ever seen!
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BY FAR…. the nicest board I have ever seen!
And … it’s FINISHED.
I just need to set it back up and take some photos … then it’s game time!
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That is some great work! I hope you have fun playing on that monster. I’m also going to move to canada to play with you.
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Except for putting on some legs (Currently sitting on top of my poker table), this is now COMPLETE! Very difficult to get good photos with the plexiglass top on. :(
AA50 1942 Setup
The Mediterranean and Africa 1942
Europe 1942
Japan vs China 1942
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WOW! I will be there TOMORROW!
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:-o Holy crap! That is wicked! Great Job!
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WOW Just WOW,
this table is crying out for some painted minatures and it could win awards!
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Holy Sh!* (censored by a man in a black suit.) Anyways what does it say under Mongolia?
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@Dylan:
Holy Sh!* (censored by a man in a black suit.) Anyways what does it say under Mongolia?
Impassible
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