@hopper1999 I’ve access to both resin and PLA printers, and while resin has a couple of extra steps compared to PLA, I wouldn’t consider it painful. I’ve come to appreciate resin’s ability to show detail even in very small scale. For me its worth the extra steps to clean and cure, for those results. What’s great is there are so many free units available, with some simple editing/converting you can quickly build cool armies.
As for casting, while I haven’t casted any A&A parts yet (still building my unit library), I have casted a lot of 3.75 action figure parts. I’ve gotten best results using a syringe and pressure pot. (I converted a old paint pressure tank). You inject your mold, and then put it under pressure, I’d do around 30psi, to help the resin into the thinner parts of the mold and prevent bubbles. It also helps, when making your mold to put it under pressure as well. I’ve found it helps prevents bubbles in the silicone and between the silicone and the part being cast.
I plan on using casting to duplicate units I already have, that I can’t find stl files for.
Posts made by ogre_h
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RE: Making minatures for the board game
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RE: Question on Scaling 3D printed ships
@cwo-marc
And when you consider how all the other units, tanks, fighters, bombers, and infantry are all their own scales, having consistency in class seems to make the most sense. At least to me. Even if units are the same size in real life, as you said, its easier for non-historians/enthusiasts to pick up the game if unit type x is scale size x.
Maybe if this was just a naval game or a land war game, then all units could be the same scale. As 3D printing becomes more common, I was interested in hearing how others approached this.
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Question on Scaling 3D printed ships
Hi,
I’m printing some ships and realized I have a slight scaling delima and would appreciate your input.
I have a resin printer at work, and have been gleefully printing some WW2 and Modern vehicles to enhance A&A classic. I also wanted to print some ships, and as we all know A&A is all over the place with ship scales. So I tried to follow them. Subs and smaller ships at around 2400 and larger ships like carriers at 4000. So far so good. But then you get to ships like the USS Wasp LHD and the Soviet Kirov and in reality they’re almost the same size. If I print the LHD at carrier scale, it will look fine with the others, but then the Kirov would look like smaller ships I’ve already printed out.
Right now I’m leaning toward keeping same class ships in the same scale, and deal with the cognitive dissonance that way. What would you do?
Thank you.