Bidding Systems

how does 3rd ed “favor” the axis to requiring a lower bid?

:lol:

i didn’t realize how much it makes a difference until i recently played Wild2000. Against an allied player that knows what he is doing, it strengthens the US and weakens any japanese attempt to try and cause the us to divert resources to protecting the homland from alaska. in 2nd edition, you can sit all your “european ready” troups in w.canada before they cross the ocean.

It may just be my own incopidence but i had, for a few days before i posted this, looked for a thread about bidding. Oh well, thanks for replying and answering my question, both of you.

I think the bidding ranges in this still hold pretty close:

I see Russia Restricted usually with a 9-15 range and
No RR with a 21-24 range.

For 2nd edition rules.

“Evertime I think I’m out, they pull me back in!”  :-D

Good to see ya Agent.

Lets not bring old club debates into this.  SUD’s post was over 3 years ago, if the bids he laid out were slightly low then okay.  Your objection is duely noted.  :-D

Also I think we both know ADS bids can be slightly lower due to the luck factor.  Obviously you don’t want to rely on a low bid and Luck to win, but I’m sure that was more common back in 2002.  Maybe not.

Also at the time he was answering an anoymous question from a noob.

And all I ment by my bids, is that is what I personally usually see:  RR 9-15, no-RR 21-24.

I’ll have to take your word for it on 24+.  I can see how you can win a non-PE 24+, I just personally haven’t seen it.  I’ve only played probably 5-6, 24 bid games, and have no idea what a typical club bid is and didn’t want to guess as to how high they may go.

Placement of units seems to be common in bidding.

I wonder how it work out using both RR and a bid, but the bid is only in Round 1 cash.

That might be something cool to try.  My hunch is you’d need to bid a little higher b/c you couldn’t put units into immediate action on G1.  Like in Afr for example, a cash bid wouldn’t help Ger with Egy, maybe you’d have to start at 15 in and go up.

You’d probably end up with Germany pretty stacked in Europe but that is about it, almost like a delayed PE bid.

Here is a new system of bidding too.

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=6054.0

This is for Axis and Allies Revised, but you can easily convert it to suit the 2nd edition since all the VC teritories are the same between the 2 editions (except substitute Far East for Bury.)

Cool, sounds kinda neat.

@AgentSmith:

I’ll have to take your word for it on 24+. I can see how you can win a non-PE 24+, I just personally haven’t seen it. I’ve only played probably 5-6, 24 bid games, and have no idea what a typical club bid is and didn’t want to guess as to how high they may go.

24 PE isn’t even that big of a deal, and neither is 25 or 26 PE. It all comes down to Karelia and if you can stop/delay that you can win always. As for bid in ADS versus LL I will say that I bid higher in ADS than in LL. In LL as you have seen I can and will take 24 or less in ADS never will I do that. Even if your opponent puts down PE 24 if you attack FinNor or nothing at all he must still get the dice to dislodge you from Karelia which in turn means ignoring the fleet. Guess who is more likely to roll bad in this scenario.

Wouldn’t a 26 with:
1 inf, 1 arm on EE and
6 inf on Ukr
be pretty formidable?
I’ll have to look at the numbers tonight.

I’m assuming an arm there because if you going all inf then a bid of 24=25=26.

@AgentSmith:

SUD’s post was over 3 years ago, if the bids he laid out were slightly low then okay. Your objection is duely noted.

Ahh but going back to 2000 he was proclaiming himself an expert on DonRaes board as well as Spring etc. Even worse his strategies really haven’t gotten better over time and he still probably bids low b/c he hasn’t learned yet. Its easy to convince yourself of your greatness when you only play against the paper tigers of the Cd club. :wink:

I just want to make sure we keep this civil and not rehash old club debates.  :-)

As for alternative bidding systems, I still like the negative bid for Russia.

Remove:
1 sub (or trn) from kar sz
3 inf from cauc
1 inf from yak

I think this does a pretty good job, it limits what Russia can do in the Atlantic, and makes a strike in Europe more costly as well as a strike in Man.  You can probably remove 1 more Russian inf somewhere too.  I haven’t tried this in ages, so maybe if it is play tested now it might not be any good, but just thought it might be an option, where you can bid to take units off.

If you guys wish to continue this please PM me or PM each other and duke it out that way.

This is a very informative thread about a frequently asked question dealing with bidding.

I don’t really care about the history on other sites, as far as I’m concerned SUD has shown his knowledge of A&A here and has contributed much to the A&A forum since he’s been here.  I consider all of his posts “must reads”.

Agent, you too have contributed to this forum, you also make some valuable posts on A&A strat, LL, and overall game mechanics.

We are not here to get everyone thinking the same way, we are here to discuss different options, techniques and strats.  This is a MB afterall.  If we all thought the same there would be no reason to come here.

There are going to be disagreements, but:

1)  keep things civil
2)  keep things focused on strat
3)  leave other board dealings to the other boards or PM each other.

I want people to post here and I’m not in the business of chasing people away or trying to get anyone.  We are talking about a board game here, nothing to get too upset over.  :-D

So, lets get back on topic about Bidding.

I think a minimum bid for me 21.  However, if I played in a club I think I would always bid 24 (possibly 23).  I think I can defeat 23 all day long and can win with 24.  I’m that damn good.  :-)

In RR, I probably wouldn’t bid lower than 12.  If it was Auction I’d start at 15 and see how high I could get then work down.  The key with RR, is Germany will have use of both subs and trn in baltic, plus 6 planes.  that is a huge difference IMO.

I’d bid the same for 3rd and 2nd Ed.  Although, I hate 2-hit BB.  Allied Adv, IMO.

While the W Can sz thing my be an inital set back, it can be worked around, IE an Inf heavy US 1 purchase, as AS suggested.  The Learning curve takes care of that one in about 1-2 games.

Interestly enough, that is how I played prior to the CD.  I never even thought W can was connected to the E can sz.  Huh, go figure.

@AgentSmith:

We are not here to get everyone thinking the same way, we are here to discuss different options, techniques and strats.  This is a MB afterall.  If we all thought the same there would be no reason to come here.

Yes so let’s make this clear what I am saying.  I care not about the insignificant person of SUD he is not good enough to compare himself to me.

Then there is no need to continue with this, Mr. Cowell.

Take it to PM’s or stay on topic.

http://www.axisandalliesworldclub.com/bidtotals.asp

gold is  2nd  ed

Omaha is 3rd  ed no  RR

Anzio is RR NO tec

Utah is RR tec after  rd 5

Yes b/c I have yet to see a CD player who actually impresses me with their play.  Until that happens I will uphold my claim that the CD club is inferior b/c the players are inferior.  This is not to say there are no good CD players, but the ones that are all come from PBEM play.  Until the CD player can organicly produce its own cache of talent it will be suspect.

I have yet seen any player from PBEM go straight to the top of the ranking that has came from PBEM in the CD clubs one of the reasons is that they give out the bids too  high to win with a good win %

Wow, I can’t see how any Axis players would win with those bids.

Warman,
Do you have an avg for avg winning bid for Axis?
Meaning what is the avg bid for all the games where the Axis won?  I’m guessing it has to be a lot higher than the 17.x.  I’m focusing on Gold (2nd ed).

Or to side with Agent, perhaps some poor Allied play.  I’m thinking with an 18 bid, as the Allies, Russia can still hit the Baltic, W sp sz and Ukr (or EE and/or Man) and do poorly in 1 or 2 and still win.

Chances are on G1, one of their battles is going to go bad.

I don’t think the Axis players are leaving themselves any wiggle room, which is why I’d be curious to see the avg bid for those that WIN as the Axis.

Or at least the overall win% of the Allies, as is.
Say avg bid of 17.6 (gold), and 1000 games played that month, if the Allies are winning 700-800 of those games, that should tell the club that your players are bidding too low.  I’d even say if the Allies are winning over 60% on a whole that would suggest Axis players are bidding too low.  Which may as suggest, inexperienced Axis play.

If you assume good to great Allied play, then a good to great Axis player MUST start their bid at 21 (minimum), but I’d probably start at 23 (possibly 24) and capitalize on those players that under bid for the Axis at like 18-20.

@DarthMaximus:

Wow, I can’t see how any Axis players would win with those bids.

Warman,
Do you have an avg for avg winning bid for Axis?
Meaning what is the avg bid for all the games where the Axis won?  I’m guessing it has to be a lot higher than the 17.x.  I’m focusing on Gold (2nd ed).

here is the win % for everyone in gold (2nd ed) I dont play 2nd ed much myself  but  go to this link and you can see for  yourself what everyones win % is  for both sides
http://www.axisandalliesworldclub.com/indtables.asp?Ruleset=5

OMG how can so many people have a positive balance as the axis?

they have a great  tec  strat

So AgentSmith = SexualHarrasmentPanda! I never realized although in hindsight looking at their personas and strategies it seems obvious. Well, AgentPanda, I’m glad you weren’t banned for good, but I do hope you’re able to refrain from as many personal attacks since I definitely appreciate your strategic insights.