HBG question - Coach or Variable?

Hello everyone. I wanted to share my latest Essex class carrier customization.

Essex 1200x900.jpg

There is a famous picture of an Essex class carrier where the hull camouflage is prominently displayed. I wanted to reproduce this late war hull pattern for piece and give it a deck a similar style as my other US carriers.

Essex Carriers.jpg

I used this image as my source for port and starboard hull camouflage patterns and color scheme.

Essex Hull Camouflage Pattern.jpg

This game piece is from HBG and it is sold in 5 packs, so I gave them deck numbers 9-13.

Essex Port View 1200x900.jpg

Essex Starboard View 1200x900.jpg

I’ve added two magnets so they hold 2 aircraft each. You can find these on my site here.

i just started painting mine.  Use spray paint.  Use Krylon grey or white primer.  After it primed spray it with the color you want as the base gray, green, earth, etc.  Then add the finishing touches the cockpit, nose, tail colors, etc.  The spray paint gives you a nice even coat.  Go light and fast over the piece about 6 inches away .  if you go slow you’ll put on to much paint.  no good you lose detail.  If you really want a sharp looking piece add decals.

look at some of my pieces on combat miniatures face book site.

Jeff Cam.

I’m considering replacing the default black pieces with the HBG grey German pieces. Does anyone have a picture of what that looks like setup on the board?

@Wolfshanze:

On HBG’s website, they have ONE plane, and it’s called the “F4F Hellcat”. I was inferring there’s no such thing as an “F4F Hellcat”… It’s either an F4F Wildcat, or an F6F Hellcat… but HBG has the plane on it’s website named incorrectly (either the #designation, or the nickname).

My favorite American airplane nomenclature from that era is the nickname which pilots gave to the greatly-disliked Curtiss SB2C Helldiver: “Son of a B––, 2nd Class”.

@IdaRed:

Thanks for the input John and Marc.  The differences Marc mentioned do matter to me as I am somewhat obsessive about details. I suspect I will end up a piece junkie eventually as well as I’ve always liked miniatures and model building.  I’m not going to be painting my newer pieces anytime soon.  I am very tempted to start practicing on the older pieces first and work my way to the newer sculpts when I am satisfied with my skill level.  I actually got interested in painting game minis by a friend after he showed me his Battlelore set.  He showed me how just a little bit of paint–even a basic paint job–could make a mini so much more appealing and more fun to game with.  I’ve been really impressed with the painted minis posted in this forum.   Â

I need to sit down and budget out minis. I think I am leaning toward just buying new copies of the games and supplementing with HBG minis for additional sculpts.  The main drawback to just buying HBG minis is a number of the basic ones for ANZAC and Italy are out of stock right now.

It sounds as if you already fully qualify as a piece junkie (even if you don’t necessarily own a lot of sculpts right now), so welcome to the club.  :)

It also sounds as if we operate on a very similar wavelength when it comes to the kinds of details that we consider important.  I have a huge amount of respect for enthusiasts who paint their sculpts – often to an awe-inspiring degree of detail – but in my particular case I’ve never been interested in painting or otherwise customizing my sculpts (which is a good thing, because even if I had the interest I wouldn’t have the time and that I doubt I’d have the required eyesight and manual dexterity).  In fact, for me one of the fun challenges of collecting A&A sculpts has always been: how can I organize the sculpts to make the best possible use of the range of designs and colours available, without actually modifying the sculpts themselves?  How can I make use of the changes in design and colour that have taken place over the years to represent more powers that the current OOB represent?

I’m still waffling over some of the choices available to me, but one example of what I’m talking about has worked out so well that I consider it finalized.  I use the nationally-distinctive butternut-grey ANZAC pieces from G40/2 to represent the southern self-governing Commonwealth Dominions (Australia, New Zealand and South Africa), and I use the British-patterned butternut-grey “ANZAC” pieces from G40/1 (boosted with half of the G40/2 ANZAC AAA units) to represent the northern self-governing Commonwealth Dominions of Canada, Newfoundland and Eire.  Initially I had planned to use the “blonde” UK units from D-Day to represent Eire, which starts out as a neutral, but then I realized that this distinction wasn’t necessary: if Eire is neutral then there’s no point in giving it any units at all, and if Eire joins the war then it acquires the same status as the other northern Commonwealth Dominions and thus there’s no need for its units to be different.

Just looked over your thread again spitfire. Saw you 190’s very cool effect they do look like they may have been supporting some of rommels Afrika core in The desert! Ever thought of showcasing some of your other units spitfire? Maybe more of your air? I would love to see more of your renditons of airpower for the nations! Lhoffman has some great air he painted with just about every air unit type painted for the Germans in dark green schemes.

@CWO:

@Fishmoto37:

Flags to designate armies to place on army cards off the board.

Very nice.  Is there any particular reason why the Russian tank is flying the ensign of the Soviet Navy?

That matches up with an army (navy) off board card that I was using in the Barbarossa game. No navy in that so just used for army. No other reason.

Very nice! Love them all!