Request for MapView Module for AAP

Now that I have AAP40 and AAE40, I want to spread the joy of Axis and Allies with my brother and his friends.  The problem is that I have all my pieces from several games in a set of Plano boxes (cheap tackle boxes).  To reconstitute the original AAP game, how many pieces of each player do I need to send?

This is what I guessed …

Japanese
16 inf, 8 artillery, 8 tanks, 12 zeros, 6 bombers
6 CV, 6 BB, 10 DD, 8 SS, 10 Trn

United States
16 inf, 12 marines, 8 artillery, 8 tanks, 12 P-38s, 6 bombers
6 CV, 6 BB, 10 DD, 8 SS, 8 Trn

United Kingdom
16 Inf, 8 artillery, 8 tanks, 12 Spitfires, 6 bombers
6 CV, 6 BB, 8 DD, 8 SS, 8 Trn

Chinese
12 Inf

Please let me know ASAP if I really missed something.  I’d hate to give him too few but I have painted many pieces and I don’t want to give thiose away.  Thanks.

If I add cruisers to the game, I will go to a 12-sided die roll to increase the differentiation in combat abilities between destroyers, cruisers, and battleships. With respect to AA fire, the Japanese were pretty bad when it came to ship-borne AA weapons, while the US cruisers were on par with the battleships.  I allow for shore-bombardment by all ships, but only in support of an amphibious invasion.  No battleships standing off shore and clearing the area without an invasion. No aerial attacks on infantry either except in conjunction with an infantry unit, whereupon the infantry get a plus 1 on their attack roll, similar to artillery support.

As a side note, the US refitted an older British Light Cruiser with an armament similar to that of a Fletcher-class destroyer, but with less automatic weapons due to top-heavy problems.  The British rated it as an Anti-aircraft Cruiser.  Just something to think about when defending against air raids with US destroyers.

Yes. I tried to match the look of those up as best I could with the existing AAP pieces.

thanks aretaku… that be a map (which wasn’t there before on google, I’d think the 2nd hit would have been found… but I had gone threw a dozen plus pages of google searches, image and web).

anyhow, found IL’s revised and looks to be superior to the original.

Once you take it, it’s yours until someone takes it from you.  You don’t have to leave units there.

I am so pathetic that I would be almost willing to pay you to be my friend…. J/K. The truth of the matter is that I have purchased the game about 2 years ago (after owning/playing A&A for years) but have never found anyone else that plays it. Trying to play with my daughter (8 yrs old) and myself just doesn’t cut it. If you could find time this would be a very casual game in that I am not in a rush. If you need 2 days to find the time to make a move that is fine with me. ‘Even a crumb is a feast to a starving mouse.’

Cheers,
Dustin

ENDGAME

Once victory is achieved on a board, there is no more combat movement or resolve combat on that board. The victor keeps control and remains getting IPC’s for all territories gained. He also regains control for territories he owned at the beginning OF THE GAME. Also you may now non combat move into enemy owned territories and sea zones leaving mixed forces, for example if Japan won the Pacific game a American battleship and Japanese battleship may share a sea zone and do not ever resolve combat. You cannot non-combat move onto an enemy capital after a game is completed for that board. Example, Japan cannot drop of troops on United States or New South Wales. However if you took the enemy capital to win the game you keep control of it and the original owner and his allies may not non-combat move into it.

I hear ya. The best way to play is have the host play Japan, set the board up, line up his turn then show up after he has all the battles laid out. That first round is a killer!

BB