Just some questions

Yes. It was a player request to have actual unit photos for easy mini identification. There are all updated and ready to play.  The dbase is also good for doing builds as you can set a nation and year restriction and view all the available units on one page. Glad you are enjoying the dbase.

Feel free to ask questions when you have them.

I’m playing A&A mini’s because it is very easy to play also for children. You can buy the different tanks on the net or eBay.
I’m also repainting the tanks and making diorama’s to make it more realistic. I even add spotters with off board artillery and reinforced positions for infantry en artillery combined with self made barbed wire f.e.

If you look on the net you can find a lot off information and photo’s.

Thanks

Speed Boost causes the Dornier’s attack to be resolved immediately. For example if the result of the attack was a damaged counter the defending plane would be destroyed.

As an example an Me 109 scores one hit on a UK Spitfire, which would be a face-down disrupted counter. Then a Dornier then uses it’s speed boost and scores a second hit, which would normally give the Spitfire a face-down destroyed counter, but because it’s immediately resolved the destroyed counter is turned face up and the spitfire is removed as a casualty; it won’t get to fire if that player went second.

Even if the Dornier only manages to disrupt an aircraft with speed boost, ground units can still target the aircraft against it’s now reduced defence (due to disruption) and it’s already taken one hit this turn, so only needs one more.

For all intents and purposes Ignores means you “treat as if it wasn’t there.” In the case of heroes this means that a disrupted counter has absolutely no effect on them - you might as well remove any face-up ones.  Defencive-Fire has little effect on them* since it is disruption that causes them to stop moving.  You don’t have to get 6 successes at once to take them out, as Heroes don’t ignore hits (ie face-down disruptions).

Unless the unit has Flamethrower, Covering Fire, etc, as these Special Abilities add another effect to the defencive-fire which has nothing to do with disruption.

@Spectre_14:

Sure thing, if I can ever figure out a digital camera my friend. Oh, need somebody’s opinion on this one. I made a unit specifically for the invasion of Japan:

Civil Defense Serviceman-1945-Cost: 1

Speed:1/1

Defense:3/3

Infantry:7/4/-

Vehicle:2/-/-

Hand-to-Hand 8

Poor Quality: This unit may only make infantry attacks three times per game (excluding Hand-to-Hand).

So, to weak, to strong?

I dont know about that.  Id just play with the minis that are sold by the great Avalon Hill in AAM.  :-D

Also, how long do the games run?
The AH site says 30-90 minutes, but for what size battle is that?

If you don’t count the time to formulate your armies, games rarely last only 30 minutes. 30 minutes is usually for a scenario that gets you into the action right away. Tournament games usually last between 60 and 90 minutes. Recreational games can last up to 2 hours if you’re taking your time. You’re first few games will probably last 2 hours.

Not for what point total he wants to play. It’s usually 45 minutes-1 hour/ 100 points you do. At 250 point armies, which is reaching the limit for point totals maintaining game balance (post 300 you’ll see huge balance issues), expect to play and hour and a half- 2 hours, maybe more in the beginning as you learn the rules. It also depends on the scenario you’re playing.

@Garfunkle:

What size is the standard playing surface?

Well, normally it’s the 2x2 maps they give you. But you won’t be able to play on that surface with the point totals you want to do. You’ll need at least one more starter set to have the ability to play on 4x2 maps or 3x3. Hell, I sometimes consider getting a third starter set for even more maps, as sometimes I feel like 4x2 isn’t big enough. I play 150-200 point battles.

@Garfunkle:

Is there good after market support for terrain and miniatures?

The terrain are maps that come with the game. Some people eventually play using 3-d terrain, but then you have to either play using houserules, or go out and buy hex-terrain, which is a whole new set of expenses.

@Garfunkle:

What scale is 15 mm anyway?

Basically 1:120. It’s more like 1:121, but 1:120 is the accepted number for buying terrain for the game.

@Garfunkle:

Are these plastic minis easy to mod and repaint?

Yes.

@Garfunkle:

I would like to have the ability to field a 250 point army

That’s like fielding a 6,000 point army in Warhammer: it’s really big and might make the game take longer than you want. Before making any army goals, play the game a few times. Having a crapload of miniatures to choose from for army building is sweet, but actually fielding 250 points might be hefty for you, since you mentioned that your kids impede gaming somewhat. 150 points is usually big enough to have alot of fun and see lots of units, but small enough that the game doesn’t last forever.

Welcome aboard. May you make every cover save and ignore enemy Superior Armor… :)

-=Grim=-

thank you or clearing that out for me

With Set II coming out you’ll be able to field and effective Soviet team and Japanese team. There are a couple of new Japanese tanks that are pretty good.

You might even be able to put together a Chinese team but you might have to amek a house rule that allows more than 15 units per team or play 80 pts. or something. Those 2pt soldiers don’t really fill out the points very well.