GLOBAL WAR 1936 FAQ

I based off what they pretty much had at peak of war. I didn’t do the 1 piece equals so many. I just made it like Uk 6 BB and spread them out. US I had 7 BB but reduced it to 5. 4 damaged in Hawaii at start of game. If it had like real 4 light cruisers and 2 h cruisers I just made that 2 normal cruisers and 2 more normal cruisers. To eliminate the 3 diff pieces. Everything else straight up with tweaks to setup as we played the game.
Yes the eastern front setup is more like spring of 41 than dec. 41 like pac is. based on the game balance and timing to work
Out. As u see the battle of the Atlantic is at its peak too. More like dec 41 there. Only issue in most games if not all is the d day invasions. Most happen before June of 44 in all games but to get correct US wouldn’t attack Europe until turn 7 or 8 with torch happening sooner
That would be a major setup change and year of turns.
I have my own map for game too.

In case anyone is interested, I’ve also been working on some naval supply rules and like Narvik I settled on a naval movement/combat radius of 2 or 3 sea zones from friendly naval bases. Submarines and transports get a range of 5, since they operated at slower speeds which provided better endurance and range.

To go along with that I also am working on rules for oilers that would extend the range of naval units; right now I’m thinking that each oiler gives an additional 1-2 range. This would allow you to combine one or more oilers and a naval base into a long supply chain to your fleet, like the US and UK did in the Pacific. This also allows for interesting side-rules like German secret raiders who can act as oilers to supply the commerce raiding warships, or submarine oilers (the “Milchcow”).

If a fleet is suddenly rendered out of supply, either due to loss of oilers or naval bases, I say that they are not allowed to initiate combat, must retreat immediately if attacked (not sure yet if I’m happy with this), and must non-combat move towards the nearest friendly naval base on their turn until they are back in supply.

I have not yet been able to test any of these rules to verify they are fair and fun, but it seems like they should generally work.

Most WWII-era ships had a designed range of about 10,000 nmi at 10 to 15 knots (typical cruising speed). Bumping up to combat speed drastically reduced that range, down to about 2,500 nmi. I’ve done lots of calculations and in Global War 1936 each sea zone on the map is about 1000 nmi wide, so reducing the combat radius of ships to 2-3 sea zones from a naval base is actually fairly accurate if you assume a fleet at sea is doing a mix of cruising speed and combat speed and either being supplied by a local oiler at the naval base, or maybe the fleet is running back and forth between port and their assigned sea zone each turn. Then each oiler unit would represent a collection of oilers and supply ships able to carry supplies further out to sea.

If you contact the company directly and speak with Doug. I am more then positive something can be worked out if you need the number its  #918-208-9573 mind you this is central time in the U.S. so call accordingly

Address your concerns and see what can be done Best Wishs!

I would love to play this game on line

Since the Commonwealth shares all technology, they would all roll for their bond “Drive” in the collect income phase.  ANZAC, FEC, Canada, UK, even South Africa if played seperately would all roll for each “nation’s” bond value.  If UK springs for advanced radar, they all have advanced radar.  SAme with improved shipyards or advanced infantry tactics.  It is all shared.

@Tall:

cwglee,

@John:

@cwglee:

Hi All,
Really hoping someone can help me out.
If I purchase the map from HBG here: ‘historicalboardgaming.c0m/Global-War-1939_c_170.html’
Am I getting the most up to date map/board?

I own both Pac and Eur 1940 �� edition 2 games, what do I need in addition to the pieces from those games to play the 1939 game?
If anyone could put together a list or direct me to an existing list that’d be wonderful!

Thanks in advance for the help/guidance!

You need the 1939 Global Supplement Pack for all the other countries that HBG sales. It is on their website. I would provide you link, but I’m not good at that sort of thing.

It has all the pro allies, pro axis and neutral countries involved as well as the roundels, you need. :-)

http://www.historicalboardgaming.com
**––When you are on the Historical Board Gaming website,…look at the menus in the top, left margin and click on the one labelled “HBG Global War Exp. Sets”. At this moment the “Global Warfare Supplement Set” that you need is the only listing.
----You can also download (free) all of the “HBG CUSTOM MARKER RULES”. These will help you know everything you’ll possibly use in the game. I hope this helps. You will probably want to buy some of the “roundels” for the new UNITS and COUNTRIES available.
----The complete “Global Warfare-1939” Rules can be downloaded (free) from the Board Game Geek website. The Rules are presently undergoing another up-date which will be made available (free) here on A&A.Org. 
----IMHO this “Global Warfare-1939” is the BEST varient and probably the FUTURE of Axis & Allies gaming.

Tall Paul**

Thanks Paul for the link. :-)

If Germany did not take France on turn 1 and bypass Poland there is no way they would win. France and UK would be able to build up and eventually the Germans would have to attack the allies. Believe me…if you dont take France on the first turn Germany is doomed.

Read the rules. Generally happy with what I see. Greatly simplified in the right places (e.g. no more US dud torpedoes) while some optional complexity is added in others (terrain rules).

One thing I really do miss, however, is the inability to retreat for the defender?? Was that decision made simply for reasons of added playing time?