How to fix board warping problem

@joeyskywalker:

I need image files so I can photoshop them. But thanks for the PDFs :)

Hope this isn’t grave digging…

Just a quick tip to anybody on this:  Download the PDF, then right click and do 'Open With…" Photoshop.  It will open and be editable.

That’s how I’m using IL’s map.

Also, I do a lot of graphic design… and you’d be surprised at how many people won’t or don’t understand to give you original PS or Illustrator files, but will send you PDFs.  Nice thing is, you can choose the DPI/PPI and color rendering (CMYK or RGB, etc.) that it opens with.

@Lynxes:

As I said UK will gladly spend 8 IPCs to block several subs from being used against the invading fleet.

One DD can only block 1 one sub.

Ger attacks with 1 sub and air (66% shot UK dd misses), then Ger Non-Coms remaining subs to other szs and replaces new sub in Sz 5.

Now the Allies need a DD to take out the sub (if survived) in Sz 6 as well as the other subs that could have moved to Sz 3 or sz 7.

Just like the Allies aren’t going to move a fleet to Sz 6 if Ger can attack heavy, Germany isn’t going to move a bunch of subs so 1 DD and tons of Allied air can sink them.  It is a bit of a cat and mouse game, but 1 Ger sub can force the UK to use at least TWO DDs (one to block sz 6, which gets killed, and the one needed to sink the Ger sub in Sz 6 if suvived the attack on the DD).  The Allies then need additional dds to sink any remaining subs that scatter.

At somepoint the Allies need to go to Sz 6 fairly heavy, just to stop the negative trade of 1-2 dds for 1 sub.  Thats a worst case +2 for Ger and potentially a best case +10 ipc for Ger for one turn.  (depends on how long or how many rounds the constant trade of sub for dd lasts).

@Sime:

I recently upgraded to a bigger board, but before that I was thinking about using those thin business card sized fridge magnets (the kind that some businesses give away for free) to hold the board in place.  I was going to cut 6 of them in half and glue them to the back of the boards like in this diagram (the black rectangles are the magnet halves in case it wasn’t obvious).

I was then going to use 6 more (uncut) magnets as joiners, connecting the boards.

I think would help stop warping at the edges where the magnets are so you can easily slide navies or armies over those sections without having to pick up the navies/armies and place them on the other side of the edge.

Although I didn’t have a pretty picture, I had essentially the same idea.

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=12827.15

I’m not exactly sure how refrigerator magnets work, but in general when you break a magnet with a north and south pole into two pieces you get two new magnets (each with their own north and south pole). This is because there are no magnetic monopoles as a result of one of Maxwell’s equations $\nabla\cdot\vec{B}=0$. If refrigerator magnets work like this, then only half of each magnet that is cut in half will be attracted to the un-cut magnet holding the board together; the other half will repel. However, I don’t think this is how refrigerator magnets work. I think they’re made up of a bunch of little dipoles and your idea should work fine. However, might a rigid, thin strip of a ferromagnetic metal such as iron or steel serve as a better spine(s)?

Try the thread linked by this text.

It should help.

Well, there’s two factors you didn’t mention (I dont have the game yet, so I am working from the bits and pieces of info I gathered so far).

That 43 British IPC allow you to buy a AC, and a factory (Eastern Canada). Merge your british remaining fleet with the newly built AC and put 2 Ftr’s on it. This will fend off any german aerial attack, or at least deminish the Luftwaffe if Germany does decide to strike on G2.

On UK2, start building transp’s in EastCan, and land units in London. Move fleet to EastCan for defensive measures, toss in maybe another Destroyer or so.

Sure, it makes it tougher for the British, and far from impossible.

That 43 IPC opens up a lot more other options aswell. AC + BB, Cruisers, whatever…

I just used some painters tape. A few small pieces on the seams and it was perfect. When done just remove tape and store the boards on the box.

i dotn mind just got a&ae and wa dgettign a&a50 right away but wait for christmas… its all good