• Moderator

    I’ve found Asia bids to be a bit weaker, because once you box Germany in
    I think the Axis are in real trouble.

    Generally, Japan should gain much of Asia without a fight anyway.

    With no bid to Europe you might see Russia go:
    sub vs. sub off Spain
    trn and ftrs vs. Baltic fleet and
    strafe of Ukr or a take of EE.

    And you are still risking a Egy counter by the UK on UK 1.

    Even if UK doesn’t counter Egy, they’ll retreat to Per and I think you’ll probably see Germany as no threat by rd 2-3 which means all three Allies can push back against Japan if needed.


  • hmm….so then Darth, with 24 IPC’s, what about all 8 on the russian front (maybe in west russia, for a possible assualt on russia in turn 1?  I know doubtful but…

  • Moderator

    @zosima:

    hmm….so then Darth, with 24 IPC’s, what about all 8 on the russian front (maybe in west russia, for a possible assualt on russia in turn 1?  I know doubtful but…

    That would be in Ukr, Wrus is in Revised.  :-D

    That would be a Power Europe play.  Very effective but typically for a shorter game and not really my cup of tea.  Either way the game ends in 3-4 rds, b/c either Germany smashes Kar or Russia holds it or deadzones it and the deciding move takes place in rd 3 or 4 when/if Ger hits Moscow.

    It would probably be better to place at least 1 inf in EE just to eliminate that Russian option.  I think it even works well if you do 4 inf EE, 4 Ukr, since Russia can stll attack Cauc but that could leave Kar open and if the Cauc battle goes bad for Russia they could be retreating into trouble.  It also eliminates a ftr (or 2 I forget the exact numbers needed) from the Baltic attack meaning you may still have your Baltic trn alive on G1.
    With 23, if you went to Europe it is nice having the extra armor in EE and the inf on Ukr or go 1 inf, 1 arm EE, 6 inf Ukr.

    I think on G1 you want to buy 4 inf, 4 arm or possibly 6 arm to hit Kar early and hard.

    You’ll probably have to pull out of WE and transporting Afr troops into Cauc or Europe may help for maximum pressure on Russia.

    Any way you look at it, it should be a quick game, and typically not my favorite since it seems to come down to who got the good dice.

  • 2007 AAR League

    And a 23-24 bid is still challenging to the axis, make no mistake.


  • but its still swings the game in favor of te axis even more.

  • 2007 AAR League

    @zosima:

    but its still swings the game in favor of te axis even more.

    What do you mean “even more”?  I thought we were saying a 12-19 bid favoured the Allies significantly?


  • yeah, you got me on a technicality.  Its been that boring of a work day.  …
    what I meant to say is that


  • whoops…


  • what i meant to say is that it DOESNT swing the advantage in the axis favor.

  • 2007 AAR League

    But if you still find that the Allies are winning too much, what’s to stop your group from bidding in the 30s?  40s?  50s?  etc.  Whatever is required to even up the sides?  That’s the beauty of a bid - it should negate any perceived advantage the allies start with, and you should be left with only player skill being the deciding factor.

    No?


  • agreed but its hard to find the perfect bid I think.  If you bid TOO high it can get out of control and germany could just put 8 tanks in easter europe and pretty much march unimpeded into russia.

  • 2007 AAR League

    True.  But the bid should change as supply and demand dictate.  Play a few games where Gemany just walks to Moscow and the bid should be corrected downward (either you or your opponent will not want to give up such a large bid again because of the known outcome) and it should eventually settle in a region where neither the Axis or the Allies have a cakewalk to victory.  I guess that was my point.


  • We are fairly new to the whole “bid” thing, so maybe we jsuthavent figured it out yet.

  • 2007 AAR League

    There is also a reverse bid that you could try.  That is, each player bids to be the ALLIES, and the bid amount is extra IPC given to the AXIS.  Here are two examples illustrating the difference in each type of bid:

    Regular:
    Player 1: I bid 26
    Player 2: I bid 24
    Player 1: I bid 23
    Player 2: pass.  You can take the Axis with a 23 bid.

    Reverse:
    Player 1: I bid 18
    Player 2: I bid 21
    Player 1: I bid 22
    Player 2: pass.  You can take the allies and give me 22 IPC to start.

    If you find that with the regular bid everyone is always undercutting the “reasonable” bid just to play the axis (for the challenge), then a reverse bid might work better where you are bidding for the Allies.  Just a thought.


  • trying your strategy, had a bid of 21 to me.


  • @ncscswitch:

    Germany and Russia are the two hardest.

    USA is the easiest

    Agreed. I would never attempt to play Russia or Germany without an oddscalc. Karelia needs to be managed with the greatest of care (as Russia, I keep at around 55% success rate against German attack). And slowing down the Japs with Russia is almost an artform if you’ve seen it done by some of the best players.

    Germany is even worse. If you have WE, Berlin, and EE locked down, it’s probably by a razor thin margin and you need to balance everything like a juggler. Most of the time, I don’t have enough troops to hold all 3, so I trade WE every round with UK or US. Eventually, the Allies will build up Spain, or attack WE en masse, forcing you to clear them out. Either way, you’re going to cede EE or WE, and then the end is in sight. The goal is to prolong it as long as possible to get as many tech rolls with Japan as you can.


  • one questions….what?

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