FastHeinz G40 Painted Pieces

Some painting I did on my original pieces.
Japanese Navy.JPG Italian Navy.jpg Bismark.jpg

Japanese A&A Pacific 2nd Edition Color Match
Hey All.
If you are looking to match the default color for the Japanese, try Vallejo Liquid Acrylic 804 Transparent Orange and Model color 140 Flat Brown mixed 30 to 1 sprayed on an undercoat of 131 Orange Brown. It’s a dead match.
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Sweet, thanks man. I’ll give it a shot!

Hi all,

It has been a while, busy w/ moving, having kids, work. But since a friend of mine was very anxious to play a big wargame, I decided to finish my Axis & Allies G40 set to get it out for a perfect gaming experience. Please do note that I was first and foremost inspired by the customizations of @Young-Grasshopper and @siredblood blood. We play G40 based on the Halifax ruleset option 2 (one UK and ANZAC combined w/ SA & CA) and the Victory Objectives of YG in stead of the G40 Victory Condition.

Since there was no card-set available to have this combination of rules and for the experience of creating something graphical, I made my own. The set consists of Halifax, Global, Europe and Pacific cards marks in some corner w/ their first letter. The first set was from 2015, but now I finished them with a new design loosely based on the rulebooks w/ the beige and see-though pictures in the background. Here’s some examples:
AAG40 Power-E Russia NO1-H.pdf
AAG40 Power-E-P UK-H NO1.pdf
AAG40 Power-E Italy NO1.pdf
AAG40 Power-E Germany NO1-E-G-H.pdf
AAG40 Power-E France NO1-E-G-H.pdf
AAG40 Generic Order of Play - Halifax.pdf
AAG40 Generic Neutrals.pdf AAG40 Back.pdf
AAG40 RD5.pdf
AAG40 Power-P China Namecard.pdf
AAG40 Power-P China Background.pdf
AAG40 Power-H CW NO2-H.pdf
AAG40 Back.pdf
AAG40 Victory Axis VO3-G-H.pdf
AAG40 Victory Axis VC-P.pdf
AAG40 Victory Allies VO5-G-H.pdf

I also made a custom map based on the bare map from YG to replace the UK w/ Commonwealth roundels and some game aids:

Furthermore I upgraded and expanded my components w/ stuff from HBG, IWNGU and spielematerial.de. And a very nice First Aid Box from the Swedish Army to store this and AA14:
IMG_20200428_132457.jpg

Well, hopes this gives you some inspiration to go nuts on upgrades :-). Please let me know what you think, if you want to know something about these upgrades of if you want to have the files for the cards (you can have the editable files or printable files w/ bleeds and cutting lines, as well).

Keep on warring…chrz

@cavestone I also use vallejo paints. The key question here is are you brush painting, or using an airbrush, or both?

The Vallejo paints have a “Model Air” line that comes pre-thinned. You can buy a thinning product (from them) to add to the “Model Color” series paints, which are the exact same thing, just more concentrated and thicker.

If you’ve never used an airbrush, its a bit finicky–it requires regular cleaning and a without a good brush and compressor the paint will flow very inconsistently. The process will be very frustrating unless you use the pre-thinned paints because the brush can only blow paint that is within a certain set of thickness parameters that are difficult to achieve, especially if you are trying to mix the air in the brush’s reserve or in small quantities. That’s why having copies of both Model Air and Model Color is fine by me–unlike Warhammer 40K I’m using primarily earthy colors, greens, dunkelgelb and dunkelgrau… other AFV and camoflage colors and so i don’t need a collection of primary or bright colors.

But I recommend it. The airbrush creates a sublime, beautiful layer and slight mix variations can be used to create shadows, grades, etc. Then you go back over with your brush, adding highlights, lines, details. Then, back over again with a drybrushing…then back to the airbrush to blast Flory Wash all over it.

Can’t see your photos, you can’t post photos until you have a certain post count. I wouldn’t use water to thin paints, they are water soluble but the mix and viscosity is all wrong (though water is obv. cheap and easy to clean up)

As for oil-based paints, these require thinner to clean up, they are much more difficult to drybrush with and are not used for airbrushing. The days of the old testors paints is long behind us–even apple barrel paints are easier to work with and cheaper. The early painting methods were much more about glomming thick layers of paint onto lead miniatures and the modern approach with water based paint and a series of different techniques creates much better results.

Thanks for the advice!  I will try a different primer.

@John:

@kcheu:

yes, i know.�  I used to paint small pewter figures for a different game (it’s a D&D nerd here) and because I enjoyed painting them so it might definitely be up next.

I’ve played D&D as well. We are all nerds here, LOL! :-D

Speak for yourself… I’m a geek (which are a lot cooler than nerds).

@Tall-Paul amazing craftsmanship