Accurate Miniature Equivalents for Custom Painting your 1940 E&P

Also slowly working on making my own pieces and designs for my new resin printer. I’m going to open up an online store for new pieces, boards, rules, and other items in the near future.

Here are my latest British ships from EBard Models & HBG.

The Nelson class battleship by EBard Models is a highly detailed 3D printed sculpt shown here painted & decaled with authentic hull camouflage.

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Nelson Port View 1200x900.jpg

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Nelson Bottom View 1200x900.jpg

HMS Furious is a very nice 3D printed sculpt from HBG:

Furious Angled View - HBG 1200x900.jpg

Furious Side View - HBG 1200x900.jpg

Furious Top View - HBG 1200x900.jpg

The HMS Vanguard by HBG is also 3D printed and makes a great addition to your fleet.

Vanguard Angled View 1200x900.jpg

Vanguard Side View 1200x900.jpg

Visit my site at A&A Boardgaming and see the entire lineup of United Kingdom ships and more.

Hello everybody. This is Greg over at www.AxisandAlliesBoardGaming.com.

Here is a sample of my latest offerings. I’ve added USA, UK & German fleet hull camouflage patterns.

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New options are available for infantry. Here are the upgraded infantry with a national flag on a red base.

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And these are my “best” level infantry. These are meticulously detailed hand painted pieces and look absolutely fantastic.

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Check out my website for even more items! Most ship pieces are also in stock for immediate sale at www.CombatMiniatures.org.

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Nice work!!

That is very impressive.

I have seen lots of people here use acrylics and I have on occasion. Most of my paints are enamels though. I find that is stays wet longer (which is a good thing) and doesn’t clump up nearly as much on your brush. I also use enamels in my airbrush. I find that enamels are actually much easier to clean than acrylics. While acrylics are water soluble, they don’t just dissolve, especially if already dry. It involves a great deal of scrubbing and scraping. With enamels, all you need is some mineral spirits cleaner and it takes the paint right off with very little effort. Cleaning acrylic paint out of my airbrush was hell the first time I did it… never using acrylics in there again. In terms of the finish, I can only assume that enamels hold up better to bumps and scrapes than acrylic paint does.

Someone once asked if enamels, by default, have a glossy finish to them. They do not, as long as you are using flat enamels, which seem to be the standard. I use flats and they have an excellent, non-shiny finish. I feel like enamel colors are a little deeper too, on the whole, but I suppose it depends on the brand of acrylic you use. Vallejo seems to be a popular choice for acrylics. I use predominantly Model Masters (Testors) enamels. In general, I would just said to find a brand you like to work with and produces the results you like. Don’t buy super cheap paint… you will get the results you pay for.

Good luck!

If you go to a local printer, make sure they do everything in house… if they outsource it and problems arise, it will be a headache getting your money back from that middle man because they can’t absorb the cost the way they would if it was their own print.

It does fit, u place the two pices on top of eachother (they are only 40 mm high, the man board is 50 mm outside = 42 mm inside). The space is 600x800x84 when folded, the two pices on top of eachother are 500x600x80. That leaves a 300x600x80 space and my plan there is to make box of wood or paper to store units, dices etc!  :-D

@sgtwiltan:

It’s really too bad you didn’t make the side piece so that it would fit into the inner portion of the main board where the map is.
You could even make a simple cover to keep the pieces inside from falling out all over the place. It’s a great idea you have there though.