This article will cover the following topics:
I. Steps for Assessing Risk
II. Approximation Methods for Large Battles
III. Assessing Utility Gain (IPC Loss and Gain)
IV. Calculation Methods for Small Battles
V. Other Utility Gain Calculations
VI. Assessing the Board Situation
VII. Long-Term Goals
While I admit I do not follow all nine steps myself, I will also admit
that nearly every game I have ever lost of Axis and Allies, Axis and
Allies Revised, Axis and Allies Revised enhanced and the other flavors
of Axis and Allies has been because I have failed to abide by the nine
laws of warfare listed below.
For the early US turns a lot is going to depend on your overall Allied strategy and what the UK is doing. To start the game the US doesn’t have much to do in terms of combat but you want to make sure you buy the right units and start to move your forces into a more useful position.
In order to go through some of Japan’s basic moves I’m going to have to make some assumptions since there are quite a lot of variations they can see due to the play out of R1 thru UK 1. So I’ll assume any bid went to Germany, Russia attacked some combination of Wrus, Belo or Ukr, Germany took Egy, cleared out the Med of all Allied ships, and countered what it could in Europe, while the UK landed in Alg, countered Egy (or setup up an Afr counter in Rd 2).
The UK presents an interesting dilemma for the Allies because their empire is spread out over the entire world. So you want to use a strategy that you think will maximize those units (already on the board) potential while you allow yourself the time to build up your army/navy from London and move out from there.
On July 26, 2007 the Larry Harris Tournament Rules version 2.0 were released. LHTR 2.0 are a set off rules for Axis & Allies Revised that are commonly used in tournaments and other game play.
Don Rae, in his Article #1 concerning correct purchasing in Classic, comes out strongly in favor of purchasing infantry in large numbers, primarily because of its defensive value relative to tanks (the only other land unit in Classic). (He also advocates purchasing infantry as part of the "Infantry Push Mechanic", but that’s another article topic.)Several folks have asked whether Don Rae’s points are still valid in Revised.
Now let's talk about the phrase that, so far as I know, was coined by Don Rae himself. That is the "Infantry Push Mechanic".
There are twelve victory cities. The Allied victory cities are located in the territories of the United Kingdom, India, Eastern US, Western US, Russia, and Karelia. The Axis victory cities are located in the territories of Germany, Western Europe, Southern Europe, Japan, the Phillipines, and Kwangtung.
Like Russia, Germany needs help from its allies to win, but unlike the Allies, it is not easy for Japan to ship troops to Europe, so other then possible fighter support the real help Germany receives is when Japan can mount pressure on Moscow. So how long does this take? Realistically probably about 4 rounds before Japan can really make Russia notice them.
The first thing you need to realize is you are not alone in the battle. It will take all 3 Allies to beat the Axis, but due to other priorities you can't really expect significant help from the UK and US until round 4 or 5 (outside of some air support). So, what is a good way to set up a solid base and ensure your survival until the Allies can take some pressure off of Moscow?
Remember, first and foremost, that although purchase units, combat move, combat, and noncombat are nominally different steps, they are really very connected. If you anticipate that your combat moves, combat results, and noncombat moves are going to, say, result in a severe lack of force in the east in the next three turns, you should probably build some infantry to march east to make up for that lack. (Or you may decide to abandon the east).